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If you can still grab and pull the filament, remove the hotend cooling fan and warm up the hotend to 220. While it is heating, pull firmly on the filament. Usually, it will soften the filament that is stuck in the cold section of the hotend enough to pull out. It takes a few minutes for the cool sec...
- Fri Mar 08, 2019 12:52 pm
- Forum: Hardware
- Topic: Taz 6 print bed damage. What do I need to replace?
- Replies: 3
- Views: 125
If the glass isn't broken, you just need to replace the PEI sheet.
It sounds like the overall model size is close enough to the design size. That is good. Holes generally tend to print smaller than the design size. You will probably need to oversize the holes in the design or ream them after printing.
- Wed Mar 06, 2019 3:09 pm
- Forum: LulzBot TAZ
- Topic: TAZ6 bed gap to nozzle far greater one one side after auto-leveling is complete
- Replies: 2
- Views: 74
When the auto level routine is tapping the corner washers, are the washers being pressed downwards at all? If so, warm up the nozzle and scrub it with a piece of green or blue scotchbrite. If the corners are being tapped without any deflection, try this: Jog your toolhead so the nozzle tip is ever s...
If all the mechanical parts look good, you can reduce the y acceleration and see if that helps. We have had several Y drivers fail on the Rambo. Sometimes, the first indication of the driver starting to go is an occasional offset.