Different z heights with different extruders

Good morning folks… So i own a taz 5 and a couple of extruders.
Of course i leveled my bed and set up all of my printing profiles with the stock extruder.
Now with my 2nd extruder i am .6mm lower to the bed than with the stock.
This is a lulzbot branded (they made it) extruder and there is nearly a mm of difference between the z height of the stock, and this one.
Is this something that others see? is it just a “deal with it” situation?
I have to admit, having 2 profiles for EVERY filament, EVERY variation is a gigantic pain in the butt… Luckily s3d has the easy offset mode, which does make it a bit easier. However, each time it runs the Home Z to start a print, it pushes .6mm in to the glass, which is less than ideal.
thoughts?
thanks

With the mounting system used by the hot end, I think it’s unavoidable to have some tolerances when you swap it. I would even think that the height will change if I unmount and mount the same hotend again.
Maybe you could get it closer if you print you own back plates, with the same printer, same settings, same place on the print bed.

In slic3r, I would create a “printer” profile for that without changing the rest of the profiles. Maybe something simmilar is possible in s3d?

thats kinda what i figured… wish it wasnt like that…
S3D does profiles. So id have to go in and change everything then save it to a new profile, etc. Not a huge deal. just a little bit of work you dont want to do when your printer isnt printing great to begin with :slight_smile: haha

Why not home the bed with the nozzle that is closer to the bed. This way when you swap to the one that is further away from the bed you aren’t hitting the bed when homing. Then use the z-height adjustment in S3D to compensate for this and move the nozzle closer. Same exact thing you are doing now but you don’t need to keep hitting the bed.

Make some shims?

I’d adjust the z-endstop for the longest extruder/hotend, then use the z-offset is S3D to accommodate the shorter toolheads or hotend.

Otherwise, I like the idea to shim the shorter toolhead / hotends.

id prefer they just all be the same :slight_smile: lol

Yeah… That would be nice too. :slight_smile:

One of them may have the aluminum mounting plate on upside down which will make it ~.6 MM different than the other. The hole slots in the plate are wide enough that it can possibly be assembled either way.

i checked, both mounting plates are on the same orientation.
thank you for trying… i appreciate it.

Try printing two plates for mounting the hotend… Could be !manufacturing tolerances. If you have calipers compair the hotend lengths…

i have been using several extruders and every one is different . I’m thinking an adjustable mounting plate might be worth designing. I have tried auto bed leveling but never gotten it to work. Would anyone else be interested in offset mounting plates so you can print one to dial in the height of a hotend? Maybe just a set of printable shims from 0.1-3mm, in 0.1 increments?

Are all the hotends the same make (ie, Hexagon AO)? Try adjusting the heatbreak… when you buy the Hexagon kits, they come with a small wrench which fits the tube between the heater and heatsink. If the tube doesn’t adjust, there seems to be a brass insert accessible from the top of the hotend… its possible that the heat break butts against the insert. Adjusting the insert may allow for similar adjustments to the heat break / heater.

If you’re using an E3D or regular Hexagon, then an adjustable mounting plate or shims would be a great idea.