Here’s my issue. I had a clog, during the removal my thermistor got damaged, and needed replacing. Since then, my taz 5 hasn’t worked right. I’ve had leaks from the heat block, stringing on my parts. The pla filament wont stick to bed, and curls towards the nozzle ( not clogged just replaced).
Also, and just as big of an issue… I have to relevel the bed, and one side of my card axis keeps going higher on the right side.
The heat block should be sealed to the upper tube using high temperature blue threadlocker. Yours is either missing, or the upper tube is damaged. The high temperature threadlocker is about $45 per container, so you might be better off buying a used pre-done one from I-T-W.com.
The bed leveling going out of level can be a couple things. Check the Z motor couplers, the small setscres can come loose and cause the leadscrews to fail to turn. Once you are sure those are tight, on the flat spot of the shafts and locked down, then take your verneir calipers and measure from the bottom of the leadscrew nut to the top of the lower leadscrew bearing. the distance should be exactly identical on both sides. Once that is correct, then heat your 3d printer nozzle to temperature, move it to each corner of the bed and use a thin metal feeler gauge to ensure that each corner of the bed is the same distance away from the nozzle. Then adjust the main height adjustment screw as needed to get a proper leveling pattern when printing the bed level gcode.
I do have the blue threadlocker from the heat sink to the heat block.
I have noticed that I have to add about 10 degrees more than I did with the original thermistor.
It’s just odd how much I have to level the bed. I use the dial indicator to measure, and get all corners correct. Then I will print a small Flux capacitor keychain, we I measure it again, it’s all out of whack. I will use calipers to measure the spots you’re talking about.
