has anyone tried the gizmo dorks HIPS? I have been using it on my lulzbot mini. I used it instead of eSUN since it was cheaper on amazon.
but my top layer of parts seems uneven. not as nice as the octopus i printed with the esun hips. not sure if i need different settings or maybe clean nozzle. using the defaults for esun HIPS.
I had one roll of it. It had terrible layer bonding. The parts just fell apart. It printed nicely with ABS profiles but the parts were useless.
Did you measure the diameter of the filament and enter that value in your slicer?
Pictures would help us figure out what is happening.
these parts are very strong. No problem with layer adhesion. Just the top surface looks mushy. Also I printed with 100% infill. I am trying to make structural parts for robots so I need infill. I will take pic when I get home. And double check filament diameter. Thanks
i measured it at 2.80. but i think the diff between 2.85 and 2.80 mm is super small relative to how accurate my calipers are. i changed to 2.80 in the slicer and tried again. same result like mushy top surface. pic attached.
came out a lot better with 50% infill
I think its the infill and not the filament that is the problem. i need to tweek settings to get good quality with high infill.
i printed some more i think its a small part and with the increased infill it is not able to cool down enough before the next layer comes down. because the layers are surrounded by 100% infill and near to the nozzle and not able to use convection with the air to cool down enough. so that it gets mooshy and that rough surface look. I think that explains why the 50% infill looks so much better.
but i would also like to get 100% infill working. have not found much good details on the internet about how to accomplish this. I think maybe i need to print at lower temperature, possible print multiple parts at once so that each layer has more time to cool. I could also use a slower print speed, but this is not as good for cooling since the nozzle will be close to the small part and just moving slower, so not as good for cooling.
i printed some more i think its a small part and with the increased infill it is not able to cool down enough before the next layer comes down. because the layers are surrounded by 100% infill and near to the nozzle and not able to use convection with the air to cool down enough. so that it gets mooshy and that rough surface look. I think that explains why the 50% infill looks so much better.
but i would also like to get 100% infill working. have not found much good details on the internet about how to accomplish this. I think maybe i need to print at lower temperature, possible print multiple parts at once so that each layer has more time to cool. I could also use a slower print speed, but this is not as good for cooling since the nozzle will be close to the small part and just moving slower, so not as good for cooling.
anyone know how to get good results wiht 100% infill? i may start new topic since this has strayed off course…
I read somewhere (probably on here) that going beyond 50% or so infill does very little for the strength of the part (higher percentages of infill may effect wear properties, but not stiffness or breaking strength). I can’t find that post now, and haven’t heard much on the subject otherwise.
I’m curious of the more experienced folks on here agree with this or not.
I’ve read that using higher infill has diminishing returns above 50% as well. I think it still helps though.
You could try kicking the fan up to 100% for the top layers. For small parts, I also see people suggest that you print multiple copies so that one can cool while the other prints. Spacing them apart on the bed would add some travel time as well.
Thanks for the tips guys. Next I will try to print 4 at a time with 100% infill, one at each corner of plate, I think it will cool it really well.
I’m not sure how to control the fan power other than yes it is turned on. I am using Cura. I will need to research this.
Also I found this really good article about infill % and strength where they tested many specimens with different parameters. Strength keeps increasing up to 100% infill. For the geometry they used, 50% infill is less than half as strong as 100% infill.
http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/
That’s some interesting information, daggius.
If you are trying to improve quality, you might look at the quality vs. infill table in that article. They note that 100% infill seems to really drop the quality. I suspect this may be because there is no space left to absorb the little extras (bumps from turnaround points, over-extrusion, etc.). Might be worth trying dropping it to 90 or 95% infill: it could improve quality with only a slight drop in strength.
The 100% infill setting causes issues as most slicers have an “overlap” settings. This causes a slight overlap in infill and vertical shells, which improves adhesion. In non solid infills, this extra overlap “squishes” into the space created by gaps in the infill. When this is set to 100%, there is no where for this plastic to go except outside the mesh of the file. The 100% infill can also cause stripping due to the overlap setting. (Infill overlap causes back pressure and a strip out.)
John MC is spot on, dropping infill to 95% should give a solid infill, without quality issues or back pressure issues.
I have had very good results with Gizmo Dorks HIPS.
What temperature settings are you using?
I was getting bad quality at 90% as well. same thing when i tried printing 4 at a time in each corner so they could cool. What I ended up doing, which worked really well, was turned shell size up to 3.2 mm. basically the shell took up almost the entire part since it is a small part. there was only a tiny amount of infill. the top layers had no infill in the middle. it came out really smooth.
the infill pattern is all zig zaggey and doesnt create a good surface with high infill %. whereas the shell puts down clean layers in a orderly fashion around the profile. really good way to do get a 100% infill I think, use huge shell thickness.
using the thick shell method I also made this iphone 6 clip to hook my phone to the eliptical machine. came out nice.
For what it’s worth, the eSun stuff has a lot of variance. Haven’t tried gizmo dorks, but finding a quality HIPS filament is becoming increasingly hard.
Be careful with the Gizmo Dorks stuff!!
I bought four rolls of it. The white and yellow were both ok and measured at 2.85mm. Both printed very well.
BUT about 25% of the way through the yellow spool, the filament just went to nothing! I mean a gradual decrease in width from 2.85mm to nothing! This happened mid print.
Then on a spool of red, I had a MAJOR jam happen. I could not get the filament out and it broke off in the hot end. I took it apart and was able to clean it out from the nozzle. What a pain.
Then I measured the filament that was on the end of the spool. WHAT?? It measured 3.5mm!!!
I then uncoiled and measured. It was all over the place for the next probably 30 feet! From 2mm up to the 3.8mm.
I also have a roll of black that is 2.9mm at least at the beginning of the spool. I have not printed with that, yet.
Please be careful with this stuff. I have set aside all of my Gizmo Dorks HIPS.
Kent
gizmo dorks is the first hips Ive ever used. Im getting excellent results with kisslicer.
Parts are strong and look great.
