# Hardened steel Nozzle

**URL:** <https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610>\
**Category:** LulzBot Mini\
**Created:** [December 11, 2015, 7:14pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610 "2015-12-11T19:14:41Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 12\
**Page:** 2

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**Author:** ![wmgeorge64](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/w/5fc32e/32.png) [@wmgeorge64](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/wmgeorge64)\
**Post date:** [January 3, 2016, 9:26pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/21 "2016-01-03T21:26:19Z")

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I agree with Sebastian 100%, 30 inch pounds (is 2.5 foot lbs,) on most torque wrenches this would be hard to see. Maybe someone experienced who does it every day not a problem, but for the occasional users or someone who has never used a torque wrench it could be a disaster.

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**Author:** ![chriswh86](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/chriswh86/32/22_2.png) [@chriswh86](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/chriswh86)\
**Post date:** [January 23, 2016, 4:36am UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/22 "2016-01-23T04:36:32Z")

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Have we discovered which nozzle is best to upgrade with? Id like to try a smaller nozzle on my mini but havent seen talk about which nozzles actually fit.

Cheers

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**Author:** ![piercet](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/piercet/32/12_2.png) [@piercet](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/piercet)\
**Post date:** [January 23, 2016, 5:22am UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/23 "2016-01-23T05:22:58Z")

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Any of the e3d v6hardened steel nozzles will work fine.

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**Author:** ![chriswh86](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/chriswh86/32/22_2.png) [@chriswh86](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/chriswh86)\
**Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 10:35pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/24 "2016-01-25T22:35:28Z")

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> [@piercet](#):
>
> Any of the e3d v6hardened steel nozzles will work fine.

If I am correct, the stock nozzle is brass, thus allowing any of the E3D v6 brass nozzles to work as well.

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**Author:** ![piercet](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/piercet/32/12_2.png) [@piercet](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/piercet)\
**Post date:** [January 25, 2016, 10:59pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/25 "2016-01-25T22:59:14Z")

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Yup, thats correct. They’re all the same size.

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**Author:** ![chriswh86](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/chriswh86/32/22_2.png) [@chriswh86](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/chriswh86)\
**Post date:** [March 9, 2016, 2:15am UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/26 "2016-03-09T02:15:16Z")

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> [@geburges](#):
>
> Sorry for the delay folks. My E3D V6 hardened steel nozzle got held up by the Christmas shipping flood. (It got lost in the post office for a week. ☹ )
> 
> I purchased a 0.25mm nozzle for 3mm filament ([3DMakerWorld, Inc.](http://www.3dmakerworld.com/store/parts-accessories/hotends/e3d-v6-hardened-steel-nozzle))
> 
> It was almost a perfect fit. I only had to lower the Z axis home by about a quarter turn and started printing. (Pretty much SOP when changing nozzles…)
> 
> I will be purchasing more of these hardened steel nozzles in the larger sizes as well as the stainless steel nozzles. 😃

Hey!

I recently put in an E3D nozzle into my Mini. I am not sure if its a v6 nozzle? I will assume so. It fits in thread wise perfectly. I have found that the nut of the nozzle doesn’t sit right on the heat block of the hexagon hot end though like the stock nozzle does. This hasnt really created any issues other than raising the nozzle slightly for the wipe procedure and I am printing at 245C lately and due to the nozzle being out of the hexagon hot end a little further 1-2mm over the stock nozzle it seems the fan is hitting more of the nozzle, cooling the hot end and it doesn’t seem to go above 240-242C.

Just wondering if you have found the nozzles you got to stick out further or do they sit up against the heat block on the hexagon like the stock nozzle?

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**Author:** ![nopick](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/7bcc69/32.png) [@nopick](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/nopick)\
**Post date:** [March 9, 2016, 8:47pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/27 "2016-03-09T20:47:49Z")

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I am running E3D V6 nozzles in my Hexagon hot ends as well. No problems at all. The fact that they do not contact the bottom of the heater block is a good thing. That lets them seal against the bottom of the heat brake just like the E3D V6 configuration. Contact with the heat block is what causes cracking to occur on some of the Hexagon units.

Does the more pointy shape of the E3D nozzle tear up the wiper pad more quickly? I’m still running the Hexagon nozzle on my Mini for that reason.

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**Author:** ![chriswh86](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/chriswh86/32/22_2.png) [@chriswh86](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/chriswh86)\
**Post date:** [March 9, 2016, 9:01pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/28 "2016-03-09T21:01:56Z")

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> [@nopick](#):
>
> I am running E3D V6 nozzles in my Hexagon hot ends as well. No problems at all. The fact that they do not contact the bottom of the heater block is a good thing. That lets them seal against the bottom of the heat brake just like the E3D V6 configuration. Contact with the heat block is what causes cracking to occur on some of the Hexagon units.
> 
> Does the more pointy shape of the E3D nozzle tear up the wiper pad more quickly? I’m still running the Hexagon nozzle on my Mini for that reason.

It probably will. I adjusted my starting G-code for the wiping sequence by around 2mm to lessen the load the new nozzle would put on the wiper pad 🙂

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![nopick](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/7bcc69/32.png) [@nopick](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/nopick)\
**Post date:** [March 9, 2016, 9:31pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/29 "2016-03-09T21:31:58Z")

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Thanks. I will try it out the next time I need to change the nozzle.

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**Author:** ![chriswh86](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/chriswh86/32/22_2.png) [@chriswh86](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/chriswh86)\
**Post date:** [March 9, 2016, 9:36pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/30 "2016-03-09T21:36:27Z")

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> [@nopick](#):
>
> Thanks. I will try it out the next time I need to change the nozzle.

I let the first wipe go with stock g-code I just didnt like the added pressure and the nut ended up being really close to the 3d printing wiper pad holder and may have bumped it a little. Either way, the auto level works normal with the new nozzle 🙂

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**Author:** ![geburges](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/geburges/32/76_2.png) [@geburges](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/geburges)\
**Post date:** [March 11, 2016, 8:07pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/31 "2016-03-11T20:07:47Z")

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chriswh86 wrote:

> I recently put in an E3D nozzle into my Mini. I am not sure if its a v6 nozzle? I will assume so. It fits in thread wise perfectly. I have found that the nut of the nozzle doesn’t sit right on the heat block of the hexagon hot end though like the stock nozzle does. This hasnt really created any issues other than raising the nozzle slightly for the wipe procedure and I am printing at 245C lately and due to the nozzle being out of the hexagon hot end a little further 1-2mm over the stock nozzle it seems the fan is hitting more of the nozzle, cooling the hot end and it doesn’t seem to go above 240-242C.
> 
> Just wondering if you have found the nozzles you got to stick out further or do they sit up against the heat block on the hexagon like the stock nozzle?

Having the nozzle contact the heater block is unnecessary and may cause leakage of molten plastic between the heater block and the nozzle. The critical contact point is between the nozzle and the heat breaker (the threaded steel tube between the heater block and the aluminum cooling fins). If your E3D nozzle sticks out too far, you can change the position of the heat break in the heater block by “unscrewing” the heater block from the heat break a little.

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![chriswh86](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/chriswh86/32/22_2.png) [@chriswh86](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/chriswh86)\
**Post date:** [March 11, 2016, 11:39pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/hardened-steel-nozzle/2610/32 "2016-03-11T23:39:44Z")

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> [@geburges](#):
>
> chriswh86 wrote:
> 
> > I recently put in an E3D nozzle into my Mini. I am not sure if its a v6 nozzle? I will assume so. It fits in thread wise perfectly. I have found that the nut of the nozzle doesn’t sit right on the heat block of the hexagon hot end though like the stock nozzle does. This hasnt really created any issues other than raising the nozzle slightly for the wipe procedure and I am printing at 245C lately and due to the nozzle being out of the hexagon hot end a little further 1-2mm over the stock nozzle it seems the fan is hitting more of the nozzle, cooling the hot end and it doesn’t seem to go above 240-242C.
> > 
> > Just wondering if you have found the nozzles you got to stick out further or do they sit up against the heat block on the hexagon like the stock nozzle?
> 
> Having the nozzle contact the heater block is unnecessary and may cause leakage of molten plastic between the heater block and the nozzle. The critical contact point is between the nozzle and the heat breaker (the threaded steel tube between the heater block and the aluminum cooling fins). If your E3D nozzle sticks out too far, you can change the position of the heat break in the heater block by “unscrewing” the heater block from the heat break a little.

I just adjusted the wiper g-code slightly and I am ok with the results 🙂 The auto-leveling works normally and I am only loosing ~1mm on the z-axis which ill never notice 🙂

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