About 4 days intoa 7 day print, I went to change the filament. When loading the new filament in, the printer told me that there was a heating error in the nozzle and I would need to reset. Is there someway I can continue the print from where it left off? 4 days of time and about $40 of partially printed plastic sitting on the build plate right now.
Using the workhorse printer.
When I went to load in new filament, it started heating up to 230, though when it got to around 222, it started cooling down again. 221, 220, then the error happened.
Here’s a good video that talks about how to restart a print.
thanks, that is interesting. It seems like it would be useful for the last executed line of Gcode to be continuously written to some variable that is stored on memory such that power outages or other interruptions could be easily resumed. Not a thing with these machines without doing some custom coding I guess? With some network connection I suppose it could even be stored somewhere other than the machine itself. I’ve been able to print the other half of many prints in the past, then glued it together with 5 minute epoxy, or even epoxy clay - this is particularly effective combined with some wooden dowels. You can push a lot of epoxy clay into the infill regions of each surface, then push a small wooden dowel to mate the two pieces mechanically. This print needed to be one continuous print unfortunately, i’ve started it again from scratch. :S
Regarding power outages … there are some printers that support a resume after power-failure. But to be honest … you really have a limited amount of time to resume power. If the print-bed is allowed to cool enough during the power outage, the part can potentially break free and you get a failed print anyway.
I use a UPS … much more reliable.
That’s a good idea, I should get a UPS.
I’ve used oilclay to reattach parts that come loose in the past. Usually this happens to some support section that gets knocked over part way through a print. A thumbfull of wax/oil clay pressed into the base of any elements of a print will keep it in place at any temperature. Good to keep a chunk of it nearby, useful for so many things. Chavant, or monster clay are good for this, and a million other things as well. Cleans up easily with isopropyl afterwards.
If a part doesn’t have a large enough bottom surface, then either (a) add a brim to help it adhere to the bed or (b) add a raft.
PETG for example, sticks really well (I print PETG on the glass side of the bed with PVA glue-stick coating the bed print area). With PETG I usually adjust the Z-offset just a tiny bit higher so that the PETG doesn’t bond too well.