```
A delta printer homes at the top of the printer. After homing, the hotend and bed are brought up to temperature and it doesn’t move down until it is ready to print. I like this because it prevents the nozzle from melting a divot in the bed (or in the case of glass it can actually crack the glass) AND it gives you a chance to swipe the nozzle with a clean cloth to remove any oozing right before printing.
With Cartesian printers like TAZ, homing touches the nozzle to the bed - which in my case is PEI. I didn’t want to melt a divot in the PEI and why not move to the center of the build platform where most of the builds are going to start anyway? I move up 20mm to give some room for a nozzle swipe.
At the end I do this:
```nohighlight
G0 Z20 X0 Y270
M104 S0 ; turn off hot end
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
```
in G-code-\>Postfix
to move the table forward so the part is easy to access, and the nozzle off the bed.
---
### Author:  [@edlink](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/edlink)
#### Post date: [March 10, 2015, 2:50pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/9 "2015-03-10T14:50:43Z")
First prints completed. Some good stuff, and some not-so-good stuff.
Layer to layer quality looks great. There are some noticeable gaps though in areas where Kisslicer “warned” me about with the colored lines. Not sure why these areas were and issue as Slic3r printed them with perfection.
The little tips came out requiring some “doctoring” to get the right fit into the top. The taper did not come out quite right.
I’m sure these are virgin-user Kisslicer things that can be fixed with some time and experimenting.
Could not seem to find a “Brim” feature in Kisslicer either. I love me some brim. I can add brim features into stl file before slicing, but that’s one advantage Slic3r seems to have over Kisslicer.
The real test of Kisslicer for me will be printing something that requires support. Supported prints is what I hear Kisslicer excels at over Slic3r.
---
### Author:  [@mhackney](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/mhackney)
#### Post date: [March 10, 2015, 3:09pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/10 "2015-03-10T15:09:35Z")
You are in the ballpark and now need to do some tuning to get perfect parts.
The warnings are legitimate. Slicers do attempt to fix STL model issues before printing. Slic3r actually does a very good job at this, KISS does an ok job. The best way to do it is to use an app designed to fix STL issues. The free web based netfabb ([http://www.netfabb.com/news.php?nid=16](http://www.netfabb.com/news.php?nid=16)) is the best way to go. These were issues with the original model and/or conversion to a mesh and really should be addressed there. The new 1.5 beta does a better job with healing too from my experience.
The 1.5 beta versions of KISS (and it should be an official release soon) support Brim on the Support tab. You can set the Brim diameter and Brim height as well as generate a fillet - nice control over this feature and it works very well.
Tell me about the taper section - it is odd that KISS did not nail that. What is it supposed to look like?
---
### Author:  [@edlink](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/edlink)
#### Post date: [March 10, 2015, 3:26pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/11 "2015-03-10T15:26:02Z")
There is a definitive “flare” where the part meets the build plate in the printed part which should not be there.
This could easily be a “newb” setting thing on my part. I did not see where I could adjust the first layer height.
Nozzle being close to build plate could be squooshing out the first layer or two a bit more than how I do things in Slic3r.
It’s a minor detail, but something I did not experience when not using Kissimple.
I’m printing the Makerbot Cement Mixer from Thingiverse now. I adjusted the “quality” setting to finest.
Looking forward to seeing how that turns out. 
---
### Author:  [@edlink](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/edlink)
#### Post date: [March 10, 2015, 4:44pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/12 "2015-03-10T16:44:43Z")
Makerbot Cement Mixer was a FAIL.
Part broke away from build plate and made a rather significant mess. 👿
---
### Author:  [@edlink](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/edlink)
#### Post date: [March 13, 2015, 12:39pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/13 "2015-03-13T12:39:48Z")
In Kisslicer, is there a way to change the first layer height and not change all the subsequent layers after that?
I know this is available in Slic3r and it’s a wonderful option to have. Especially when using glass with the PET sheets.
---
### Author:  [@mhackney](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/mhackney)
#### Post date: [March 13, 2015, 12:42pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/14 "2015-03-13T12:42:46Z")
Not exactly but the Bed Roughness setting on Printer-\>Hardware is another way to get a more smooshed 1st layer. Mouse over the field and the help tip will come up. There is also more info on it on the KISS forum and in the manual another gent is developing.
---
### Author:  [@mhackney](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/mhackney)
#### Post date: [March 13, 2015, 1:06pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/15 "2015-03-13T13:06:09Z")
CORRECTION…
There is a Z-offset parameter that should be used to change the first layer height. See [http://3ntr.eu/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/KISSlicer\_manual\_040115.pdf](http://3ntr.eu/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/KISSlicer_manual_040115.pdf) and search for “Z-offset”.
> Z-offset: this is the extra Z distance that will be considered at the first layer. You may want to enter (small?) negative values to make for thinner first layers (BUT some firmware setups will not allow this). In any case, this is one of the key parameter for a good quality print.
---
### Author:  [@edlink](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/edlink)
#### Post date: [March 19, 2015, 1:59pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/16 "2015-03-19T13:59:27Z")
When you load a part into Kisslicer, and then you click the option to print two or more of those parts, is there a way to change the spacing between the parts? Kisslicer defaults to placing the second part pretty close to the first. Too close in most cases to print each part individually.
---
### Author:  [@mhackney](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/mhackney)
#### Post date: [March 19, 2015, 2:05pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/17 "2015-03-19T14:05:27Z")
I’m not sure, try right clicking on the part display there are additional options there.
But, if they are too close to print, that would be a bug. Can you post a screenshot?
---
### Author:  [@saramos](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/saramos)
#### Post date: [April 24, 2015, 5:53am UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/18 "2015-04-24T05:53:44Z")
> [@mhackney](#):
>
> Ah, I added that start up code! It’s in the G-code → Prefix panel and looks like this:
>
> ```plaintext
> G28
> G0 Z20
> G0 X150 Y138
> M104 S
> M190 S
> M109 S
>
> ```
>
> A delta printer homes at the top of the printer. After homing, the hotend and bed are brought up to temperature and it doesn’t move down until it is ready to print. I like this because it prevents the nozzle from melting a divot in the bed (or in the case of glass it can actually crack the glass) AND it gives you a chance to swipe the nozzle with a clean cloth to remove any oozing right before printing.
>
> With Cartesian printers like TAZ, homing touches the nozzle to the bed - which in my case is PEI. I didn’t want to melt a divot in the PEI and why not move to the center of the build platform where most of the builds are going to start anyway? I move up 20mm to give some room for a nozzle swipe.
>
> At the end I do this:
>
> ```plaintext
> G0 Z20 X0 Y270
> M104 S0 ; turn off hot end
> M140 S0 ; turn off bed
>
> ```
>
> in G-code-\>Postfix
>
> to move the table forward so the part is easy to access, and the nozzle off the bed.
First off, Thanks for developing the profile for the lulzbot. So far, I have tried Cura, Slic3r and Kiss. At this point, Kiss has become my go to slicer. However, I came across a problem with your postfix when printing multiple tall objects. The postfix causes the heat to simultaneously lower the printhead as it moves to X0 and Y270. This can cause the printhead to crash into tall printed objects. A better approach may be to move X0 and Y270, then separately move to Z20.
G0 X0 Y270
G0 Z20
Scott
---
### Author:  [@mhackney](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/mhackney)
#### Post date: [April 24, 2015, 12:12pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/19 "2015-04-24T12:12:21Z")
Good catch Scott, thanks.
I’ll make the change to my postfix too.
cheers,
Michael
---
### Author:  [@saramos](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/saramos)
#### Post date: [April 24, 2015, 5:36pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/kisslicer-help-calling-mhackney/1424/20 "2015-04-24T17:36:58Z")
I applied the change on my postfix, and it works great. I suppose if one is printing a really large item over 20mm high that is near the back, left corner of the build plate, the head could still crash into the part. Perhaps not moving the Z in such situations would be the safest approach.
Another issue I am experiencing is that after homming, the move from home to the start of the skirt will run at a really slow rate. It may take over 60 seconds for the head to make the move. Once the actual print starts, it moves at the correct speeds. Any ideas on resolving this issue?
Thanks!
Scott