# PEI bed surface

**URL:** <https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/pei-bed-surface/690>\
**Category:** Hardware\
**Created:** [July 12, 2014, 6:12pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/pei-bed-surface/690 "2014-07-12T18:12:43Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 1\
**Showing post:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![unxetas](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/u/67e7ee/32.png) [@unxetas](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/unxetas)\
**Post date:** [July 12, 2014, 6:12pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/pei-bed-surface/690/1 "2014-07-12T18:12:43Z")

</div>

Folks - I had been following a looong thread on SeeMeCNC about using a sheet of PEI as a bed surface on 3D printers. Everyone kept saying it was a miracle material - people were easily able to print both PLA and ABS, with a heated bed of course, with perfect adesion but easy extraction once the bed cools off enough. No glue, no ABS juice, no treatment whatsoever other than keeping it clean.

Well, I finally tried it out last weekend… Got a 0.040" thick sheet from McMaster-Carr, along with a 12"x12" sheet of 3M 468MP transfer adhesive. Removed the PET from the TAZ’s bed and went to town gluing the PEI down. It definitely takes a bit of careful work to adhere it nice and flat.

I readjusted my bed level and height and… Voila! I’m printing some fairly big parts (the TAZ 4 Z motor mounts, top plates, etc) with perfect adhesion, no warpage. These are long flat parts with sharp corners and I’m using quite a bit of infill to make them stiff. It is a night and day difference to what I went through trying to get ABS to stick to the PET tape, even with ABS juice. I haven’t printed with PLA yet, but from what I’ve read, that will be no trouble at all!

It’s also fairly thick and strong, so it will take quite a lot of effort to mess it up. So far, I’m super happy with this upgrade and whole heartedly recommend it to anyone having trouble with getting their parts to stick!

---

_[View the full topic](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/pei-bed-surface/690)._
