Hello all,
I had just started my first print using HIPS on my KITTAZ, and a few seconds into the print, my entire printer shut down.
I checked and the power supply is getting 110VAC but I have no power coming out of the PSU to the printer. I’m going to open it up probably tomorrow, but was looking at any tips that someone else might have already encountered.
Maybe there is fuse in there that popped for some reason?
Thanks!
-TJ
I can’t help you with that unfortunately, just wanted to state I’m also sort of scared my PSU will die soon because once already it made loud weird noises when plugging the power in. I plugged it out again and replugged it and since then it was OK but still it sort of got me scared considering this is a potential fire hazard…
Any feedback in terms of the PSU would be good to get. I do run it on 230V though…
Btw, is it possible to buy a Taz4 psu replacement?
I have found which seems to be the same psu on Alibaba, but minimum quantity is 100 units.
Inaki.
So I just opened up my power supply. There is a fuse soldered in line on the board, and it has continuity across it. All of the other components look ok as far as I can tell (no blown caps or melty spots on the IC).
If I plug the power cord, one of the transistors gets really hot quite fast. It is Q1 on the board, and the part is E13009L. Looking up the data sheet, it’s a high voltage switching transistor ( http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/53466/FAIRCHILD/E13009L/406/1/E13009L.html ). There is a second transitor right beside it in the Q4 spot, which is also a E13009L. (They are the larger ones on the right side in the picture).
If I compare the two, the Q1 transistor measures in the neighborhood of 550 ohms between base/collector and collector/emitter, and is open between base/emitter. The orientation of the leads matter, just like that of a diode. These numbers are what I am kind of expecting.
The Q4 one however has a about 30 ohms resistance between the base and collector pin and 30 between the collector and emitter pin, and <1 ohm between base and emitter pin. It does not matter what orientation the leads are in, these measurements are the same. This one was not getting hot, but I imagine that it is defective.
Mind you I am taking these measurements while the parts are still soldered to the board, so I might not be actually measuring these components, but in the past, I can usually tell which one is the bad one by seeing which one is not like the others, or which one is shorted.
I have found some available on eBay, but maybe someone has had a similar issue and can chime in?
We don’t recommend working on the power supply. Instead, please send in an email to Support@LulzBot.com with the following information:
Order number
3D printer serial number
Contact information
Shipping information
Once we get the above information we will know more about getting a replacement to you.
Thanks Orias.
Where do I find the serial number at?
Well, The parts I ordered to replace the transistor seems to have done the trick. Powered right up and seems to be working well under load. woo!
