Problem with using Laywoo-D3 on Taz5

I have a TAZ 5 printer running the hexagon 0.5mm nozzle. I’ve been trying to print with the cherry Laywood but I’m having a lot of issues getting the print to turn out. The finished product ends up looking very pitted and kind of like a sponge, picture attached. I’ve tried different settings including slower feed rates and smaller layer sizes. I’ve also played with different hot end temperatures. Nothing seems to help. It seems like it isn’t extruding correctly regardless of the settings.

Does anyone have any suggestions?


I was looking through some unanswered posts. I saw this one. Perhaps you already have received some answers, But if you care to show some of the settings that you are using, I would be glad to help you fine tune them.
To me when I look at this print, it appears that you have a slightly clogged hot end. The extrusion on it has far too many gaps for the hot end to be extruding properly. I would go through some tool head set up to ensure that you have everything working properly before attempting more prints.
With the hexagon hot end the first thing we will want to do is to check your micro blower. This is the smaller of the two fans on the hot end, and it will be pointed directly at the heat sink. (The horizontal hexagon metal plates). This is on a dedicated 5v connection, and should turn on full blast whenever the printer is turned on. Please turn off the printer, and turn it back on while keeping an eye on that fan. If this is not functioning, it can lead to heat creep issues and making printing much more difficult.

If the micro blower checks out, let’s look for an obstruction in the hot end. Bring your hot end up off the build plate and up to printing temperature. Once at temp, open you idler and manually push the filament through the hot end. Your filament should extrude in a solid consistent line. If nothing is able to extrude or it comes out like a “pig tail” it will indicate an obstruction and it will need to be cleared. We recommend a procedure called cold pulls, and you can find a write up on it below.

We will next want to test the extruder. Be sure that all sides of the hobbed bolt are clear. Turn off the printer or disable the motors, and manually turn the large herringbone gear to access all sides of the bolt. Using the dental pick included in your toolkit you will be able to ensure each “cog” of the bolt is clear. Once cleaned, load in filament and verify idler tension. It should be ~5mm from inside washer to inside washer. (Distance the spring is compressed) Next attempt to extrude via Cura while the print head is in mid air. If this is successful we know that the extruder itself is fine.

If all above is clear and jamming occurs at the beginning of the print, jamming will be a result of an unleveled bed and or improper Z height. If your nozzle is too close to the bed, it is essentially trying to extrude plastic into a solid plate. With no room for the plastic to be extruded, it creates a traffic jam. This causes filament to back up into the nozzle and become burned, as it remains in the hot end for too long , make an adjustment to the Z axis thumbscrew ,to increase nozzle height and attempt the print again.

After this, we would have to look at various layer height, first layer, and speed settings to see if we could help.

These are procedures that are good for all materials, to set up your tool head before doing any printing. I hope this information will help.