# Remove autolevel from gcode

**URL:** <https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/remove-autolevel-from-gcode/20842>\
**Category:** Software\
**Created:** [February 19, 2020, 8:33pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/remove-autolevel-from-gcode/20842 "2020-02-19T20:33:18Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 5\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Slicedbread](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/slicedbread/32/9698_2.png) [@Slicedbread](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/Slicedbread)\
**Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 8:33pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/remove-autolevel-from-gcode/20842/1 "2020-02-19T20:33:18Z")

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I’ve been having all kinds of trouble with really every part of the print procedure on my Lulzbot Mini 2 that comes before the actual extrusion starts.

I think I could get around 90% of my issues if I just ran a level X axis at the start then input a manual Z calibration level.

I tried stripping out the wipe and autolevel commands from the gcode but then the printer started the job about a centimeter above the bed.

Does anyone know how I can amend my gcode to be at the correct z-offset?

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**Author:** ![Iggy](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/iggy/32/10012_2.png) [@Iggy](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/Iggy)\
**Post date:** [February 19, 2020, 8:51pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/remove-autolevel-from-gcode/20842/2 "2020-02-19T20:51:09Z")

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I’m curious to know if this works too. I’m guessing there’s some firmware tinkering that needs to be done too.

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**Author:** ![ScottW](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/53a042/32.png) [@ScottW](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/ScottW)\
**Post date:** [February 23, 2020, 11:50pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/remove-autolevel-from-gcode/20842/3 "2020-02-23T23:50:57Z")

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Take a look at this thread (via Wayback machine, live site appears to be gone):  
[https://web.archive.org/web/20191014153109/https://code.alephobjects.com/T1506](https://web.archive.org/web/20191014153109/https://code.alephobjects.com/T1506)

The last comment from Marcio, Lulzbot’s Marlin developer, says it can be done in later firmwares (i.e., complete a G29, save the results with M500, later restore them with M420 S1 instead of having to G29 again.

Unfortunately, the last comment in that thread is from a user who tried it on a Taz Pro and couldn’t get it to work. But you might still give it a try on the Mini, and paying attention to the firmware versions mentioned in the thread.

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**Author:** ![monsteroyd](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/43a26b/32.png) [@monsteroyd](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/monsteroyd)\
**Post date:** [February 25, 2020, 10:19pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/remove-autolevel-from-gcode/20842/4 "2020-02-25T22:19:09Z")

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There is a setting on the mini 2 screen for probe z offset. Is that set correctly? mine is like -1.4? (which is the distance from the top of the washer to the bed I think) Or are you saying that without the leveling operation it won’t get lower? I’ve never had a problem with my mini 2 start up g code with added x leveling.

Monty

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**Author:** ![HillMakeItBetter](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex020/user_avatar/forum.lulzbot.com/hillmakeitbetter/32/10622_2.png) [@HillMakeItBetter](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/HillMakeItBetter)\
**Post date:** [October 6, 2020, 12:22am UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/remove-autolevel-from-gcode/20842/5 "2020-10-06T00:22:16Z")

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Does the mini work different than the Taz 6? I slice in Simplify3D and deleted the start g code so it doesn’t auto level every time.

I use Octoprint and simply use G28 then G29 after I boot up. I send the gcode to Octoprint then run the print. It works great and don’t have to mess with auto probe every time.
