TAZ 3.1 upgrade from 3.0

I was searching around in devel site and stumbled upon TAZ 3.1 http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/3.1/

Is this released yet? If yes, can we upgrade our TAZ 3.0 to 3.1? What are the diffs? Thanks! :slight_smile:

The final files are here:


The differences are all quite minor, so they are equally sold as TAZ 3. It is mostly just a newer batch.

How do the z nut springs work on the new design? Mine keep snapping in half. I have had to reprint them 2 or 3 times.

This is the one I am referring to: http://downloads.lulzbot.com/lulzbot/TAZ/3.1/production_parts/printed_parts/stl/z_nut_spring_m6-v2.1.stl

Are they snapping after transporting the printer or during long Z moves? If it’s the former, we have printable rod clamps we use for shipping: http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/2.0/production_parts/printed_parts/stl/Clamp_a.STL and http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/2.0/production_parts/printed_parts/stl/clamp_b_2.STL

If the Z axis springs are being damaged during z moves, that only typically happens if one Z motor is not moving/moving at the same rate as the other. What printer host software are you using? Repetier-host has a default Z move speed that’s higher than recommended for the Z leadscrews we’re using on the TAZ 3D printer. Is your X axis level to the Y axis? If not, it can cause binding on the Z axis.

Leveling instructions can be found here: http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/3.0/documentation/2013Q4/LulzBot_TAZ_3.0-User_Manual-ebook.pdf on page: 49 Section 4.1.
clamp_b_2.STL (14.7 KB)
Clamp_a.STL (14.5 KB)

Well. Here is the thing. The first time they broke it was my fault. I ran the z up to high and they both broke. I re-printed them in PLA and have been reprinting them in PLA since. I think PLA may be my issue. What happens is the PLA will start to separate where the heat inserts go into the z-spring. Eventually it will just crack in half from the tension of the spring. Also I am using Repetier-host. There is also a possibility that I may have missed a setting in marlin when I re-flashed the rambo board to be compatible with a new LCD.

I printed off a set of the new z springs I do not understand how they work. Any suggestions? I would assume from the way they are made that they are suppose to be anti-backlash?

I would recommend printing the Z nut springs in ABS. If you don’t have ABS, send an email to Support@LulzBot.com with your 3D printer details/order number/etc and we’ll see what we can do. Are you using the stock Z nut sprints or 1013’s?

I will re-print them in ABS and let you know how it goes. I tried to use 1013’s but i can not seem to get the nuts to pull up inside of it. Also it seems kinda strange to me the way they work.

Last night while playing with the printer I was re-leveling the bed and when I raised the Z I noticed that I have bent one of the z-screws. I ordered a new one from mcmaster this *should solve the issue. I think that possibly that the z-spring was flexing way to much. This rod is very bent. I would say it has a deviation of about 5mm or more as it turns. This bent rod would have been on me. I had the rods on my table an I remember that I may have stepped on one of the rods that rolled off. ( took them off to replace the z-springs the first time, I have since learned that i can just drive them down from the top.)

Also, Once I get this issue resolved would you mind me showing off the printer at makerfaire KC this year?

The Z nuts were a tight fit for me, but they seated well enough after a bit of heating >_> .

Please feel free to show off your TAZ wherever you want- We’ve seen some really clean and interesting user-built TAZ 3D printers.