# TAZ 6 switching back to original tool head

**URL:** <https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/taz-6-switching-back-to-original-tool-head/4925>\
**Category:** LulzBot TAZ\
**Created:** [May 28, 2017, 8:00pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/taz-6-switching-back-to-original-tool-head/4925 "2017-05-28T20:00:56Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 5\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![svanwhy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/c68b51/32.png) [@svanwhy](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/svanwhy)\
**Post date:** [May 28, 2017, 8:00pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/taz-6-switching-back-to-original-tool-head/4925/1 "2017-05-28T20:00:56Z")

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Hello

I’ve been using my new MOAR struder and loving it!

[http://youtu.be/LtyUjPfm9-A](http://youtu.be/LtyUjPfm9-A)

Now I need to print some ABS and I have switched back to the original tool head.

I re-flashed the firmware for the original tool head, is there anything else I need to do? When I switched to the MOAR struder I had to manually change the E-steps, do I need to reverse the process somehow? I do not see a sticker on the back of the original tool head with E-steps like there is on the MOAR Struder.

Thank You

V/r

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**Author:** ![kmanley57](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/k/13edae/32.png) [@kmanley57](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/kmanley57)\
**Post date:** [May 28, 2017, 10:54pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/taz-6-switching-back-to-original-tool-head/4925/2 "2017-05-28T22:54:26Z")

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> [@svanwhy](#):
>
> When I switched to the MOAR struder I had to manually change the E-steps, do I need to reverse the process somehow? I do not see a sticker on the back of the original tool head with E-steps like there is on the MOAR Struder.

If you did not record the E-steps for the extruder that was on the printer when it was shipped. Then you will need to perform the calibration to find the E-steps setting you have lost.

It is always a good idea to place a sticker on your extruders so you have their E-Steps on each of them.

> **[OHAI: Open Hardware Assembly Instructions](https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/fine-tune-mini-extruder/calibration/)**
>
> Open Hardware Assembly

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**Author:** ![GJG](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/a587f6/32.png) [@GJG](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/GJG)\
**Post date:** [May 29, 2017, 4:57pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/taz-6-switching-back-to-original-tool-head/4925/3 "2017-05-29T16:57:57Z")

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If you have the original documentation that was shipped with the printer.  
E-Steps for the original extruder will be shown there.

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**Author:** ![david](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/aeb1de/32.png) [@david](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/david)\
**Post date:** [May 29, 2017, 6:03pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/taz-6-switching-back-to-original-tool-head/4925/4 "2017-05-29T18:03:05Z")

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Hello,

If you would like to give your serial number to [support@lulzbot.com](mailto:support@lulzbot.com), we can tell you what your Esteps were that came with the printer.  
I hope that may help.

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**Author:** ![svanwhy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/c68b51/32.png) [@svanwhy](https://forum.lulzbot.com/u/svanwhy)\
**Post date:** [May 30, 2017, 1:52pm UTC](https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/taz-6-switching-back-to-original-tool-head/4925/5 "2017-05-30T13:52:23Z")

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Thank you everyone for the help!

I conducted the extruder calibration and set it accordingly. I also found the documentation that GJG spoke of and it is called the “evaluation and test document” I am now making a binder to get all of my stuff together and I have put a little sticker on my tool head with the E-STEPS on it.

I guess I do not understand how E-STEPS work, before calibration my E-STEPS were 816 and it was over extruding. After calibration the result was 830. I would think that you would reduce the number of E-STEPS for over extrusion. I’m just trying to wrap my head around the concept.

My next project is to make a tool head holder with a label showing the E-STEPS.

Thank You!
