TAZ Sidekick 747 profile for octolapse?

Referencing v0.4 Creating And Configuring Your Printer Profile · FormerLurker/Octolapse Wiki · GitHub

Does anybody know (or how to find out) the bounding parameters for the TAZ sidekick 747?

When I go home via the gLCD controller, I get on the LCD x=-2, y=-23, z=20. Are these the values to use?

Thanks, I am new to this stuff…appreciate any support.

As the article you referenced suggests, start with the build volume which is 231mm x 231mm x 248mm (9" x 9" x 9 1/4") for the Sidekick 747. If you need a custom bounding box, then start with the minimums at zero and the maximums are the values from the build volume. X and Y might go a bit negative for minimums and slightly above the maximums, leave Z alone. I believe the origin should be front left.

Hey b-morgan, thanks for paying attention to this thread…I was getting worried for a minute.

Anyway, the post also says “ALL of these settings are critical, and you must get them right.” I am concerned (being a 3D newb) that I will end up driving the bed or nozzle beyond where it should be driven. So the experimental method has be perhaps unreasonably worried that I will damage a gear or motor. Also, it looks like when I use the glcd that x=-2 and y=-23 are supported. I am not sure if these are actual units (mm) or unscaled values.

All in all, maybe I am not making a tempest in a teacup. I don’t have a lot of confidence in the firmware, though…especially firmware written by people who are doing it for free.

What is the risk if any of getting it wrong?

While Marlin, OctoPrint, and its plugins are “open source”. I wouldn’t underrate the quality of the firmware or the people. My confidence is usually higher for “open source” and its authors than for a lot of “paid for” software.

Octolapse settings are critical to obtaining the desired result, a time lapse video with the tool head out of the way. Octolapse needs to know where it can park the tool head which will be somewhere within the bounding box. Moving the tool head outside those bounds may result in triggering an end stop which if not expected, can cause an error and a failed print.

If you don’t set the bounding box but just use the build volume, then Octolapse will pick a location within those bounds to park the tool head when it takes a snapshot. The resulting timelapse video may show more of the tool head than is necessary and for large print objects, block the view of the object.

The glcd values of -2 and -23 are printer units which for most printers, is (the default) mm. See https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G021.html and G20.

More important than the Octolapse bounding box is the OctoPrint printer profile bounding box. OctoPrint will compare the GCode coordinates to the bounding box and generate an error if the GCode tries to go “out of bounds”.

As long as you take a conservative approach, the risks are minimal. No harm will come to your printer but your videos may not be as “perfect” as you like.

The people are great.

Thanks for your tips, it really helped on this problem.

You’re great too.