Using Different Brands of ABS

I used to not able to use ABS from other manufacturers for my TAZ3 printer. The filament will extrude for about the first layer and then the Hobbed Bolt will dig in and no longer able to extrude. After a long study I found out that the reason for the Hobbed Bolt dag into the filament because it was too hard to extrude thru a much longer path after the hot-end gets to temperature for a longer period of time. The Tech guy from Luz Bot said this was “Heat Creep”, and that exactly what the problem was.
The budaschnozzle has a segment of heat radiator between the nozzle and the aluminum mounting flange,it is about 30 mm path for filament, and it can be hot to a point where most ABS filament will become soft even at the top of the aluminum flange. As the filament gets soft it likes to buckle and fatten, and as it gets fatter the space for filament in the chamber gets tighter, and heat build up even more making the filament melt way before it needs to (it was melting at the aluminum flange). The consequence is that now there is molten plastic in the chamber that is more than 30 mm deep…
The way to solve this is to keep the heat radiator fins cool.

So, active cooling is a must if you want to be able to become less selective in choosing what brand of filament to use. I still don’t recommend using filament that extrudes at high temperature though because they are a problem maker to the heat resistor (I bought one from EBAY that extrudes at 242C for 20 bucks a kg, not worth the money).

I made a simple bracket for mounting a 50 mm fan and keep it running at approximately 65% duty cycle. That is enough to keep the fins cool and I am now able to use all the filaments I stacked up due to the “digging-in” problem I described.
50mmFanHolder_HexNut.STL (184 KB)
40mmFanHolder_HexNut.STL (184 KB)

Can you post a picture of the ABS you were having trouble printing with? I’d be curios to see if it’s ABS or actually PLA.

Yes it definitely was ABS, see attached picture of one of the ABS I could not use without the active cooling, but now I am using it again because it works fine after the fix.
In trying to find different ways to tell the difference between the ABS from Oleph Objects and from the ones that looked softer, I melted a few pieces of each in Acetone, the slurry resulted from each is a little different… The one from Oleph Object has more power thing in the solution and you can see separation of solid and liquid if you leave it sit for a while…

I think Active cooling is good to have for TAZ3 for the reason I mentioned in the first post.

Could you please show picture of how the attachment of the fan was put on? Thanks for sharing!