Z-Axis Stepper Motor Calibration

General Hardware
1

I had some issues with the Z-Axis stepper motor (TAZ4) on the right side and had to replace it. I replaced it with the same model (Model Number: SY42STH47-1504A) and it fixed the issue i was having but is now causing a new one. It’s throwing off the Z-Axis square so do I need to calibrate?

I’m fairly new to 3D printing so thanks for the help!

2

Z axis calibration proceedure

  1. with the heatbed and hot end turned off, move the bed to middle of the Y axis and all the way over to the left side of the X axis. Find a flat tool of known thickness (a ruler, etc) and place it under the hot end nozzle and then lower the hot end until it is just touching the top of the tool.

  2. Place a bubble level (longer the better) on the bed and level it from that point front to back and side to side and on both diagonals.

  3. now slowly move the print head over to the right on the X axis, using your tool as a thcikness gauge. If the nozzle starts digging in to the tool or lifting away from it, you need to adjust the Z axis leadscrew (counterclockwise for up, clockwise for down)

  4. To adjust the leadscrew, power off the printer, then unplug the Z axis motor on the side you wish to adjust from the TAZ wiring harness. This will prevent electromagnetic pulse from traveling back to the board and melting your board fuses. Then turn the leadscrew in whichever direction it needed adjusting, reattach it, and then power the printer back up and try again.

  5. Repeat that process until the printer is level all the way across and then all the way front and back and at all 4 corners.

  6. Your Z endstop target height is probably off at this point, so remove the feeler gauge tool, heat the print bed and nozzle back to temperature, adjust the initial height until it looks abotu right and a piece of thick paper just fits under the nozzle. then run the bedcalibration gcode file and adjust the endstop target height until you are getting a good starting layer. You need to set the height with the nozzle fully up to temperature to account for the heat expansion of the hot end.

You should be perfectly dialed in at that point.