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Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:42 pm
by catzcradle
Interestingly enough, I still have some warping problems on large ABS prints. It's odd, in that it will print perfectly without lifting or anything for say 10-12hrs, but there seems to be a point, at about 2 to 2.5 inches, that the corners start to pull, and things go south on certain large parts. Large, thin parts, no problems, large tall parts, problems.

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 7:18 am
by nbmoretto
catzcradle wrote:Interestingly enough, I still have some warping problems on large ABS prints. It's odd, in that it will print perfectly without lifting or anything for say 10-12hrs, but there seems to be a point, at about 2 to 2.5 inches, that the corners start to pull, and things go south on certain large parts. Large, thin parts, no problems, large tall parts, problems.
I have been printing large parts with no warp. I haven't been using any adhesive too, such as hairspray, glue, ABS slurry. All I use is a raft and a bed temperature of 90 on my Taz 4.

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 5:16 pm
by catzcradle
Is the raft to keep it held down? I get corner lifting on long large prints on the PEI bed.

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 5:37 pm
by paulmorley
I searched but didn't see an answer to this. The basebrackets_3DPR (repaired).stl file is significantly scaled down when i open it in Cura. Does anyone know the correct scale i should increase it by to achieve the correct size?

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 3:10 pm
by JonathanB
Hey guys,


Sorry, like I've mentioned, it's been a busy year PLUS with the forum change I couldn't figure out how to log in! Hilarious. I'm glad the thread has a bit of action again, I want to really encourage people to upload their builds now that I have put everything out there for free including the BOM. Let's see what mods you have come up with etc.

*knock on wood but I'm actually suprised at how little maintenance my TAZ4 requires, I must have done over 1000 hours of printing on it so far with very minor repairs need along the way. One thing I did notice is that I used a 12" square sheet of 3M 467 adhesive to put the PEI down and after that many hours of printing, the glue started to dry up. I think that model of sheet the thinner one so in the future I recommend getting the thicker adhesive sheet. To fix it, I just doubled up two 467's and it went down nice and should last longer.


@Catz, you should NOT be experiencing significiant warping so something is up. Do you have a thermometer to check the temperature in the box, ideally it will be in the 35-45 range. Make sure you have no drafts leaking into the enclosure either. On certain parts, after they cool, long stretches will always have a small bit of warp to them, it's pretty difficult to avoid but it should be very minor, with the enclosure, you should be able to make great, usable prints in ABS.

@Paul, I sent a pm to you. You need to get a program called Netfab and just convert the units from mm to inches or vice versa, this will solve the problem. Don't scale!

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:46 pm
by paulmorley
Thanks for the reply Jonathan. I had already built the box by the time i got your message. But it's all good. Here she is in all her glory. Kind of large for my office but I love it. Thank you so very much for all the effort you put into the design.

I haven't finished putting the panel in the plexi but i'll do that in the next few couple of weeks. I also included a pic of the first big item i printed. It was a 12 hour ABS print and it was PERFECT. Perfectly stuck to the floor, perfect layers bottom to top. I could never have done that before.

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:47 pm
by paulmorley
The rest of the pics...

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 8:11 am
by choban
What is the opinion from people who have build this box about keeping the TAZ control panel inside or outside the box. Is there going to be a heat problem with keeping the control panel inside the box. I feel very lucky I ordered all my parts a while ago, and I will start my build sometime in the next month.
This post has gotten very long, is there anything I need to watch out for before I start the build. I printed out the directions a while ago, someone talked about using 1x3 for supports, a problem with the screws and latches, drilling holes in the plexaglass and cracking it, bending vs using a piano hinge, any other things I should consider before I start my build.
Also I printed all the parts used in this box with PLA, will I have any problems with heat.

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 8:14 am
by BigKahuna
Hi Jonathon, just wanted to say how enjoyable it was building your enclosure. I'm sure glad I bought your parts kit, it made the job 100% easier. Here's a picture of the finished product.

My printer is in my basement workshop and this time of year the temp. is about 52F the enclosure easily maintains it at 72F. I still need to seal some heat leaks but I'm happy so far.

One thing I noticed is that when the fan for the Rambo enclosure comes on it's sucking in cool room air (a good thing) but the air is exhausting inside the enclosure (not a good thing). I am going to design a new air intake/exhaust that will allow the cool air to exhaust outside the enclosure.
TAZ5 Enclosure.jpg

Re: HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 9:16 pm
by paulmorley
@BigKahuna That's a great idea. In fact i've thought about that too but never thought about trying to isolate both. But this adds to another idea I had that I'd like to add to the overall design of the box... And that is a panel that can be removed to allow full access to the plate over the controller. Yes, it's possible to remove the top of the box but for me it would be infinitely easier if i just had a door on the side that I could remove for temporary access. So i'm going to design a side panel door with both in and out for air. Will post something after i get it rolling. I think i'll just print the whole thing. If i can get what's in my mind out in CAD, this thing should look pretty cool too.

@choban Just drill slow on the holes. Start with smaller bits and graduate up till the hole is the right size. Practice on a scrap piece of plexi if you have some left over. regarding screws for the main outside of the box, I used a counter-sink drill bit combo and was careful to get them all the same which led to a really nice finish look. I bought stainless oval head screws with a tapered base so they could be counter sunk. Made a nice looking finish. If you decide to paint it, i might suggest KILZ in a spray can for the primer on the wood. I actually tried a couple of lower priced spray primers but i kept having to put more coats on because it didn't seal the mdf that well. KILZ is great at that and the spray can is in a different league than the other brands. Good Luck!