Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

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piercet
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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by piercet » Tue May 09, 2017 2:06 pm

Mine did have the arms on them. Maybe I had them mounted on the opposite side? I dunno. I'll post the mirrored front plate thing tonight when i get home.

bflorin
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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by bflorin » Tue May 09, 2017 5:08 pm

I figured out what was up w that part, must of been accidentally flipped when you exported the stl and added it to the archive. In the archive when that part is opened....the print side is facing up and incorrectly offset while all your other parts are orientated print ready. All I needed to do is flip X then rotate z 180. I bet your file is correct on your pc which is confusing us both ;)

kmanley57
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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by kmanley57 » Tue May 09, 2017 10:22 pm

Not sure reducing the Y build volume is good. Might be better to reduce the lip at the top so the switch/bed can travel to the proper location.
The front and back plate are the same, short side to the left as stated in the directions, but the pictures for the motor are backwards.
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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by piercet » Wed May 10, 2017 12:27 am

bflorin wrote:The 6 has a swooping curve idler bracket and the stop switched are mounted to the belt mount on the bed.
IMG_20170509_133916.jpg
IMG_20170509_134021.jpg

How about this- i cant find the pics to back this up, but for some reason the thought that your stop switches had the big metal arm on them and you directed someone to bed the arm out a bit to make contact? Maybe that was someone elses mod? The 6s button only sticks out 1.25-1.5mm.
IMG_20170509_135229.jpg
See if this one works
Attachments
Taz_V6_ONLY_Openbuild_Y_Endplate_Reinforcement_Motor_and_Idler_3_0_f.stl
(120.3 KiB) Downloaded 133 times

bflorin
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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by bflorin » Sat May 13, 2017 7:45 pm

kmanley57 wrote:Not sure reducing the Y build volume is good. Might be better to reduce the lip at the top so the switch/bed can travel to the proper location.
The front and back plate are the same, short side to the left as stated in the directions, but the pictures for the motor are backwards.
The stop switches are 2" past the edge of the build platform. Adding the shim has no effect.

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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by bflorin » Sat May 13, 2017 7:50 pm

Have a nice straight belt now :)
IMG_20170513_213655.jpg
Here is my shim for the idler-
IMG_20170513_213436.jpg
IMG_20170513_213543.jpg
IMG_20170513_213557.jpg

bflorin
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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by bflorin » Sat May 13, 2017 8:01 pm

piercet wrote:
See if this one works
Looks right, other than it comes in upside down.

This was your file I flipped and printed. Its oriented print ready-
Taz_V6_Openbuild_Y_Endplate.stl
(119.13 KiB) Downloaded 118 times
Idler spacer I made-
Taz_6_Idler_Spacer.stl
(170.82 KiB) Downloaded 130 times

bflorin
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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by bflorin » Mon May 22, 2017 1:27 pm

builds been running great up to today. 12 hours into 17 hour abs print....locked up a wheel/bearing off the table. Not sure if the failure is from 110c bed for this long of a duration or I just got a bum bearing. Paused the print...tried to break the wheel free, no luck. I have extras, so its going to drag the wheel until the print is finished.

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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by piercet » Mon May 22, 2017 1:47 pm

Thats the first catestropic bearing failure i've heard of. it's certanly possible though if one of the ball bearings itself fragmented. I regularily run 17+ hour prints on most weekends with the bed at 110, so it shouldn't be due to that. Definitly sucks that it is mid print. You could try loosening the corner of the bed during pause, then slip an allen wrench in and undo the lower nut slightly to relieve friction, but worst case scenario it might just chew up the wheel a bit. Replacement wheel tires are only about $2.30 last time I checked, the bearings you may be able to source locally from a radio control hobby store.

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Re: Adding an Openbuilds Openrail Y axis to a Taz 3/4/5

Post by bflorin » Wed May 24, 2017 12:31 am

I got to give a hand to the durability of those wheels you recommended. Dragged that locked up wheel for 7 more hours to finish the print . No measurable wear on the wheel, slight sheen visually on it... That's it.

Since you came from a 5, I'm not sure if you ran into this. On the 6 going through the factory hole for the y stops- the 4 wires drag on the top inside of the open rails. At some point, it will wear through the cable insulation. I drilled two additional holes for a zip tie to hold these 4 wires tight to the underside of the bed, away from the open rail. Note i also routed these 4 wires differently over the edge/top of the bed.
IMG_20170523_175108.jpg
The tapered bolts for the wheels were also giving me hell. The taper prevents the bolt from having a nice level base to lock against. I switched to 30mm button heads and a larger washer. They tighten straight and true every time now. Still plenty of clearance for this change above and below the table

Also note the heating pad and temp sensor wire routing...
IMG_20170523_165811.jpg
The bed will bulge up if you run all 4 heat wires and all 4 y stop switch wires straight into the bed from the stock indentation. There is not enough clearance (from upper face of the aluminum bed to the bottom of the bed glass for all 8 wires.

Completed look except for the nozzle wipe piece
IMG_20170523_175700.jpg
Prints so damn smooth now

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