Taz 6 specific Openbuilds X axis

I have had a few people ask me if the Openbuilds Rail X axis modification will fit a Taz 6. The answer before now has always been “no” Today however, I am posting the initial alpha revision of the Openbuilds X modification for Taz 6.

Please note that as there are zero Taz 6 printers out of warranty at this point, you should not attempt this mod, or iof you do, keep the old parts and tell no one you did it in order to avoid warranty voiding.

Ok, that out of the way, This is the alpha revision. I haven’t even printed these yet, and of particular difficulty for testing, i don’t have a stock Taz 6 to try them on, so until resting occurs, please consider these experemental. Pictures first:
Taz6_OpenRail_motor_Endcap_1_0_a.stl (386 KB)
Taz6_OpenRail_Idler_Endcap_1_0_a.stl (311 KB)
The next revision will reduce some of the unnecessary mass in the mid section, the revision after that will add a pin based anti wobble option. This should in theory fit the Taz 5 Openbuilds X rail length, and all of the other Taz 5 Openbuilds X rail pieces will bolt on the same as they do for the Taz 5 variant. The Openbuilds Y axis is already compatable with the Taz out of the box. I’m not intending to make an Openbuilds Z axis for the Taz 6 as there was not very much interest in the Taz 5 variant.

The anti-wobble version will be a modified variant of my existing Taz 5 anti-wobble. instead of the top pins, it will have another floating disk section and steel pins.

These versions should print with no support and only require heat set inserts for the M2 limit switch fittings and the leadscrew mounts.

One change from the Taz 5 version, you will need to tap the upper hole of the ends of the X axis rail. It’s the only way to get a 3 point mount easily. This may lead to an allignment pinching issue, but I may have a fix for that later.

I’ll probably have the optimized weight variant of this done sometime this weekend. the anti wobble part may take a while longer.

Anyways, here it is, enjoy!


Hello Piercet,

Great design! but I have a question by looking at the two models, for the Motor endcap will this work with your Motor mount design from the TAZ 5 design? Looking at this how will the motor mount onto this? From your old Motor endcap design piece I see a little indent in the middle facing the back.

Yes, the x motor mount will fit. There is actually more room on that particular dimension than there is on the stock variant, so it doesn’t need the support tab like the 5 did. If you do run into any issues with it though, let me know and I’ll adjust things as needed for you.

Great! Thanks Piercet! I will have this tested in February after coming back from vacation! I have parts ready, I will post a picture when completed :laughing: This will be a direct complete makeover of TAZ 5.

Looking forward to seeing it!

Hello piercet,

Here I am coming back from vacation, I tried out the model for the X-axis and it didn’t work, there wasn’t enough moving room from right to left so that it can hit the switch and the four washers to autolevel, it was off by around 10mm or so. Also, for the left x axis motor as you can see from the pictures below, the bottom switch tab had to be bent forward more just to hit the x carriage for toggling. As for the right x axis idler the switch on the x carriage doesn’t hit the little protrude on the x idler at all, it is off. All pictures are below that shows the problems.




Ok, I see what the issues are. the Taz 6 is 10mm wider than the Taz 5, so my allignment on the part is off by 10mm, and the taz 5 variant has the X max limit switch on the idler block, not on the carriage. I should be able to cut the x motor bolt side mount back 10mm without losing structure, and the Idler side would just be extending the recess for the limit switch out to fit the carriage mounted limit switch instead. i’ll get those fixed and posted here shortly.

Edit: how is the fit on the back side X motor mount? any clearance issues there? or with the X carriage backplate?

The first picture looks to have the Taz 5 X carriage guide instead of the Taz 6 one. That would keep the right switch from hitting correctly.

no clearance issues on the backside.

Its TAZ6, there is two layers, the backside looks like TAZ 5 but it is the plate that holds the TAZ 6 Carriage.

Are the files in the first post the updated versions? The file name looks like its the first version. Thanks!

The updated versions don’t yet exist. I’ve been busy with other project (specifically getting ready to move house), sorry

I’ve made some minor adjustments but are untested. I am doing the Y axis mod on my Taz 6 currently so my printer is out of action.

Piercet, how much is involved to do open rail mods for the Z for the Taz 6? I know you have said you wont be doing it as there wasn’t much interest in the previous, but would like to do it.

The existing openbuilds Z mod for the Taz 3-5 uses the X end plates as the foundation. To use it with a taz 6 you would either have to aquire a set of those endplates and then retrofit in the Taz 5 openbuilds Z axis and X axis, Or you would need to design a completely new setup. The leadscrew position and the guide rod position are different and closer together so there is very little room to get everything in the proper allignment. You might be better off converting the back frame extrusion to a guide rail and using that rather than placing another rail where the existing Taz 6 Z rod is. The Taz 5 x endplate setup would probably be easier because the parts all exist, and you could still use your auto leveling setup, but even then it would be a major untested undertaking.

So quite involved then…

Ok, I think I have all the issues resolved now. For the first one, the pictures earlier in the thread are using the old incorrect variant of the Openbuilds X carriage that has the shortened tabs. Thats causing the X motor side limit switch to miss. On the Y axis side the Limit switch trigger nub was not far enough out to make contact with the fan mounted limit switch. That picture also shows that the Taz 6 cutout toolhead mount notch is not installed, so that may also have contributed as well.

The issue of the toolhead overall travel is baffling, and i’m beginning to suspect the extrusions in the unit pictured were 500mm long in the X direction (stock Taz 4-5 lengths) and not 510mm long. Thats the only dimension that would account for the travel being narrower than the bed plate targets by 10mm. That being said, I’ve created two new mounts that allow a total of 20mm additional travel on x, 10mm per side. The endstop trigger for the X maximum on the idler side, though extended outward, is still in the correct position relative to the rods, so it should have the correct travel on that side, but the motor side may now have 10mm excess travel. If that ends up being the case I’ll produce one with the X endstop prior location restored. Alternativly you should be able to use the 1st X end piece posted as is without modification.


The anti wobble is still in the works. I have a version that should work for the X antiwoble, the Y axis i’m having difficulty fitting it in the available space.
Taz6_OpenRail_Idler_Endcap_2_0_a.stl (297 KB)
Taz6_OpenRail_motor_Endcap_2_0_a.stl (356 KB)

I’m thinking of dumping the guide rod and capturing the lead screw inside a c-beam. Only reason I haven’t ordered the c-beam yet is I can’t find it in black. If I can get z figured out, x will fall in easy.

With the toolhead assembly, is the nozzle still in the original position so homing and nozzle wipe wont be affected?

Ive printed a set (1st design) and i am finding the carrage is approx 7mm too low measured from the fan mounted switch to the idler tab and roughly 3mm forward from the tab. Also the front mounting point on the idler side prevents the carriage from getting close enough. It seems about 2-3mm needs shaving off to clear.

It’s probably slightly forward but I can’t remember if it is further down or not. It should be about the same position since I centered the rails on the centerpoint of where the two rods were. If it needs adjusting I can certainly tweak the design as needed. The big problem is I don’t have a 6 frame with stock parts to test against. I should build one one of these days.

I am happy to test out designs to work out any issues. My design skills are not up to scratch to make heavy changes to parts