http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:372842
enjoy
Sweet!
Do you have a video of it in operation? Pics would be cool too!
Newer version no need to modify any original parts. drop in replacement for budaschnozzle 2.0
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:374717
No vid or pics yet. have to wire it up but they will follow shortly.
added pics of the install. will do a vid of it running as soon as I sort out the wiring and firmware. Now real sure what changes I’ll have to make. its a 12v heater cartrage and the fan should be on any time the hotend is heating. It doen’t use a honeywell for reading temp so I imagine hat will have to be changed as well.
But for the mechanical, I beleive this is solid. No changed needed to original machine. just swap hotends.
Great!
The thermistor selection may need to be updated in the firmware, to reflect whatever’s used in the v6. A guide on reflashing the firmware can be found here: http://ohai-kit.alephobjects.com/project/marlin-resistor-update/
Awesome!
What about the heater cartridge? its 12v and I can’t seem to fine if the budaschnozzle 2.0 is 12 or 24v and what if any changes I may need to make.
also for the active coldend cooling fan. is there a connection and code so it is on when the hotend is on? it is 12v also.
TIA
-Wayne
We have the firmware set up through PWM control to run the buda at 12V off of the 24V power supply. It should be pretty much plug and play but you will need to change which thermistor you’re using, it should say on e3d’s product page but I know that it’s different from the buda. You might alst want to change your PID settings - there’s a tutorial for finding the right ones here: http://www.lulzbot.com/support/fine-tune-your-marlin-pid-settings.
You can use the FAN1 output on the rambo and control it suing the M106 P1 S127 command (sets the fan1 output to half power ~12V), but you’ll need to make sure that it’s ALWAYS on, an uncooled metal hotend is bad news.