Yeah, Cura needs a .hex file. I've config'd and flashed from Arduino IDE on a Chinese kit printer, but never the TAZ. I'm comfortable doing it, but it does take a lot longer (I'm not very experienced so there's lots of looking up and double checking each and every step).billyd wrote: If I recall you need to use a hex file with Cura.
I recommend learning how to update with arduino direct from the code. This way you can alter and keep a record of the PIDs for your extruder(s) and bed, and also the K value for Lin_Advance, which can't be changed any other way that I am aware of. You can also learn how to add things like bed leveling and other features that can be unlocked.
Look here for custom firmware, networked 3D printer hosts like OctoPrint, and more!
I may have something going on with my printer, don't know...Sebastian wrote: I'm also surprised about K=60 should be the best. If we are all using more or less stock TAZ5 hotends, K should be the same at all printers within one material used.
But I would recheck your second statement about e-steps. Your pictures tells another story, where the scars from the travel moves are the strongest indicator. The excessive material is building up at the sides of the infill traces, during the travel move the nozzle is digging through that.
I'm using a Micro Swiss hardened nozzle, but I don't think that this would change too much my thermal properties. I do think is time to do a maintenance on my printer... check set screws, tension etc... I'll do that tomorrow.
I tested my e-steps 5 times today, extruding 10 cm slowwwwwly (G1 E100 F100)... maybe my nozzle is to close from the printbed. no idea....
After I give the general maintenance tomorrow, I'll test it again. I tuned down the acceleration an the noise improved using LIN_ADVANCE, but it clearly forces much more the extruder.
Cura is not a programmer. So the one without the bootloader.hrabbot wrote: Stupid question: If I'm flashing through Cura's firmware update function, which do I need? I don't remember needing to care about this with other RAMPS, etc firmware flashes. Thanks!
I will express my CRAZY ideas at any time! So you have been warned. None of my opinions are Lulzbots and can be wrong at any second.
I guess stopping the print clears the target temperatures, starting a new one is setting it again and start heating from a still half-hot hot end? Then the settings for the thermal runaway check are too agressive, try to relax them a bit. They relaxed them already in RCBugFix in the past and it's now working with my stock TAZ 5 hotend but I also had this error in the past.billyd wrote:However I have noticed if I stop a print midway from the LCD and then start another I get a thermal runaway error unless I shut the printer down.
Yes relaxing those numbers got rid of the issue.
The new firmware is fantastic. This is must have for the Taz 5 imo
Check out what the latest rcbugfix branch of Marlin can do!
I guess this is made from ABS and acetone vapor polished? Looks realy good, never thought this was a 0.2mm print. Some day I should give ABS a try, just because of the acetone option..
Sebastian wrote:I guess this is made from ABS and acetone vapor polished? Looks realy good, never thought this was a 0.2mm print. Some day I should give ABS a try, just because of the acetone option..
The original model poster was made in white ABS and acetone polished. Mine is actually in red PLA. But I could print it in ABS also. Trick is with something this tall you definitely need an enclosure so it doesn't crack due to shrinkage. Even with an enclosure it's tough to not get ABS to crack as you go to 150+mm tall.
You can wet sand PLA and get great results too.
But I guess only on models with plain surfaces?billyd wrote:You can wet sand PLA and get great results too.
I think I'm not patient enough for wet sanding
Sebastian wrote:But I guess only on models with plain surfaces?billyd wrote:You can wet sand PLA and get great results too.
I think I'm not patient enough for wet sanding
Yes it's a lot of work. ABS is easier with the acetone, but in this model's case you would lose a lot of the fine detail (rough scaly skin of the creature) and make it baby smooth like his white print. Defeats the purpose of this high poly count model in a lot of ways.
You can't see the layer lines in my red PLA print because of all the fine surface detail in the model. So it really doesn't require any treatment to paint outside of some primer. It's that good in person. Anyway I'm not going to paint it I just wanted to see if I could print that challenging model and see what RCBUGFIX would produce quality wise. Very pleased.