Any idea why HIPS is warping just as bad as ABS?
I bought it thinking it will stay adhered to the bed, but it’s still bending off the bed.
What temperature are you using for the bed and hot end? What are you using on the bed? PVA glue sticks should work well.
I was told on here the HIPS was the answer to my problems. I was running 20-22 hour prints in ABS on one of my designs and the ABS would warp and crack around hour 15-16. No matter what I did in the slicer settings, it still cracked every time. Any prints under 12 hours never cracked. 12-15 hours was a maybe and anything beyond was a guarantee. I had heard on here that HIPS prints like ABS with very similar temp settings but doesn’t have the warping and cracking issues. Well… that was BS. The HIPS warped and cracked even worse. I was told I needed to slow the speeds down because HIPS likes to print at a slow speed. In order to get the HIPS to print perfect I would have to extend the long print time to a ridiculously long 35+ hours. That completely defeated the purpse. So at this point I set the spool on the shelf and it hasn’t been touched since. I went back to ABS. If there is a way to run HIPS on long prints without any cracking; I have not heard about it.
The solution to ABS warpage for what it’s worth is the PEI bed. I’ve not had a single part lift even slightly since I started using it. No idea if it works for HIPS or not, but if you were looking at HIPS because ABS was warping too much for you, I’d check out the PEI bed thread and go from there.
I haven’t had issues wit the prints lifting. If you use enough acetone slurry the print will stick. Getting it off can be a real PITA. I still get horrible cracking even if the bottom of the print is perfectly stuck to the platform. What will happen is that the print will crack maybe 1-2 inches up the print and then pull up and warp from that crack. I really wish someone would come out with a new type of plastic that could handle LONG prints, have little to no warping, no cracking, be sandable, and paintable. The “bridge” nylon stuff does all that but doesn’t allow you to sand or paint. PLA can handle long prints without warping or cracking and can be painted and sanded but it isn’t heat tolerant. You put that part in a black car on a hot day in direct sunlight and the part will warp and melt on you. Since I’m making interior car parts I have to deal with really high ambient temps. I need something that prints and acts exactly like PLA BUT can handle the high heats (high melting point) like ABS. Once that product hits the market it will save me a TON of headache.
ColorFabb XT might be your solution if they come out with opaque colors that suit your need.
The colors are irrelevant because I sand and paint the parts. If this plastic is sandable and paintable then we may have a solution here. The issue I see is that it needs to be printed in the 240-260 temp range. My TAZ3 will only let me go up to 235. Is their another nozzle available that would be a direct swap in that can handle those higher temps?
I think high temp hot ends are going to be the standard going forward. Lulzfolks have mentioned the Hexagon hot end while others have used the E3D v5 and v6 hot ends on the Taz.
I think there are adaptors for both on Thingiverse or here.
http://www.printedsolid.com/shop/printer-parts/hexagon/
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6
Since many of the new printing materials coming out have higher melting temps, it sounds like the folks over at Lulzbot need to keep up with the trend and offer a higher temp hot end. sounds like something to be put on the table for the TAZ5. You guys put dual “high temp” heads with fans and a thicker build plate on the TAZ5 and I will be the first in line to buy. For now, lets see some upgrade kits on the website for the time being.
They’re coming! Unfortunately I don’t have a time line for you, but we’ll be offering them.