I bought a roll with my printer, but have not tried it yet. Any input on how it prints and as a final part would be great to know.
If ur not familiar with it, Aleph dose not sell it as of now. It suppose to be easy to print like HIPS, stronger than ABS with out warping, shrinkage, cracking ect.
You can check it out and bit it here
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=3.00mm%20PLA%20Filament
I bought a 12" X 12" .040" from McMaster-car P/N 8685K41 and applied it with 3M468MP double sided tape. What an awesome improvement for ABS, Hips and PLA I have tried
SpenceB.
Spence, you totally missed the question. PET is New type of filament not a bed / print surface. PEI is the print surface.
Check out the link I provided in the post.
EDIT
For starting out with PET + I just used the Fast PLA slic3r config (TAZ 4) with my E3D V6 hotend set to 250. My bed temperature starts at 110 and then lowers to 90 after the first layer has been placed. It seems to bridge and print very well at this temperature and setting (With the E3D Nozzle). The Fan is also set to auto 35-100%
I will note that this same technique was attempted using the budda nozzle and it failed miserably. probably due to the lower maximum temp and attempted extrusion speed. All things aside the below information still applies.
-It will print slower than PLA unless you increase your temperature and has greater overall strength.
-Initial Layer height and Z Stop calibration is crucial with this filament. It is extremely picky and it is always worth it to start over to ensure it is correct rather than wait and see. 90% of the wait and see decisions will result in a bad print.
-At the temperature i print at the nozzle loves to leak everywhere. Careful tuning of your retraction will be required.
-I use a 3-10mm brim on parts for added security while printing onto Kapton tape. I’ve never had a part remove itself using this method (Sometimes it is difficult to even remove the parts. I will note that my printer is enclosed and natural heat from the bed keeps even ABS from warping. Its ambient temperature averages to ~ 40-55C
Hey toymaker,
I’m running madesolid black PET and I have taz4 with e3d v6 direct. I am running cura on the settings that I could muster from madesolids website. because the first several prints would delaminate when I twisted and broke them with pliers. So turn the fan off and the parts I could twist and twist and twist forever no breaking just bending. Nice. Now I am having issues with at end of print I get some build-up on nozzle, but minor. And one other thing, it seems to retract funny sometimes and wont print for a sec or two here and there, think I need to change retraction settings. Also temp works more then well at 230c.
I wish we could get a thread going were we can build a list of all the cura settings for every material, not just tge ones aleph wants to put up. actually here are my settings in cura
Basic .24,1.05,yes,1.5,40,60,0,0,none,none,3.02,100
Advanced .4,50,2.5,.375,125,.0,.15,150,40,0,30,30,15,no
Nozzle is a .40
Can anyone tell me better retraction, or settings thanx
Just to cap what I wrote earlier on this post.
Since I’ve started using esun PETG which seems to be as strong as the more expensive brands (made solid pet+) and taulman pett, and tech g, and also more flexible. I will tell you this stuff is great, I’m loving it, as its my favorite filament right now hands down. I find it very funny that a kilo of this stuff is 30$ on amazon and it is the most versatile filament around. I don’t even know why you would print with ABS as esun is cheaper, stronger(100% layer bonding) and slightly flexible so the parts dont break just bend.
Print this stuff with tglaze cura settings, at 245-250c nozzle and 70c bed with or without glue stick.
I second that. I’ve been printing with eSun PETG and it’s some pretty impressive stuff.