I have been making some rather large pieces in ABS that were in the 20-27 hour range. I have been getting a lot of warping and a LOT of cracking. I can’t really slow the speed down since the prints are already super long. I ordered a larger .5 nozzle and will jump from .2 layer height to .3 layer height. That should decrease the print time, but not enough. I would like to try HIPS as the primary plastic and not just the support material, but I can’t find much info on HIPS. How do I ensure it sticking? ABS slurry again? Bare glass? PET with no slurry? Painters Tape? Anyone use HIPS and can provide feedback? Nozzle temp? Bed temp? How does it handle in humidity or high temps (like in a sealed car on a hot day). PLA sucks in high temps, ABS is better but can’t handle the long prints. I need something that can print at the speed of ABS, can be sanded and painted, can handle the outdoors/humidity/high temps, and can print for long periods of time without warping/cracking. “Bridge” and all other nylon filaments are not paintable, carbon fiber is just stupid expensive; so I think HIPS is my answer, but I’m not sure. I can find it in the color I need, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this is the answer to all my problems.
HIPS should be fine to use, and should stick well with the usual abs solution. Set your first layer speed to ~20-30% of your normal printing speed and it should stick well. A solution of PVA (school glue) and water, or glue sticks will help as well. HIPS will print well at large scales and should hold up well outside.
Thank you. That covered everything I needed to know. As soon as I get my new converter box in the mail and get my machine up and running again I will start printing in HIPS.
I forgot that there is one more bit of info I need. What temp should I have the nozzle and platform?
I have been running HIPS at ABS temps with good results. I just run the printer a little slower than with ABS. I am not sure that is necessary but it produces a really nice surface finish.
Thanks for the info. I will be using Cura as my slicer and will switch the 100% print speed down to 75%. I will switch my first layer print speed down to 40%. Hopefully that will work. 230 nozzle temp with 95 bed temp has worked well on ABS for me so that will be my starting point and I will adjust from there until I find that sweet spot.
I will add that the HIPS parts are not very durable… I am not running Lulz HIPS though.
Well my account no longer works. It says that someone tried to log into it too many times so I now have to enter this code thing that doesn’t work. I finally gave up and just started a new account. In regards to your statement, what makes you say HIPS isn’t very durable? I haven’t read that or heard that anywhere. I definately need these parts to last. What specific durability issues does it have?
Its kind of a powdery plastic. not alot of tensile strength
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Thanks!
Hi I just printed with hips today using the TAZ 3 on a 3 hour print using 230C and 105C for the bed temps. Basically it works much like ABS. You can print on glass with slurry or an elmer’s glue stick, either one will work. I haven’t witnessed any powdery substance as mentioned in other posts and it is very durable hence the name “High Impact Polystyrene”. 
Are you using the slurry directly on the glass without the PET tape? It doesn’t look like you have the tape on your platform. What were the speed settings for nozzle movement?
After playing around with some HIPS as well, for me it’s not worth it. (unless for support material I guess, as soon as I get a dual extruder)
Apart from the cheaper price, I don’t see the upsides. Compares to ABS I also feel it warps exactly the same, and has less tensile strenght.
Been trying Lulzbot HIPS (Purple and Silver) at 230 / 85 degrees.
Back to ABS for now 
edit: I should state the objects I’ve been trying to print with HIPS were all very fragile with thin walls. I’m sure that larger / thicker objects will hold together just fine when not a lot of tensile strenght is needed.
I guess I should update this thread. I ran quite a few prints in HIPS from 2-27 hours in length. It seems to warp and crack exactly like abs BUT you can’t repair it with acetone. Acetone has been my go to fix it solution for cracked parts. I bought some limoline since that is supposed to work like acetone on HIPS. It does not. It takes FOREVER to react to the plastic and it leaves an oily smelly residue once it dries. Once you use limoline the paint no longer wants to stick to the part. The HIPS is also way more brittle than ABS. I accidently dropped a large part and it shattered like glass. Then I saw the flaky white stuff the earlier poster mentioned. I am officially done with HIPS. Was not what I thought and just costed me a ton of time and money to figure that out. for little figurines that are for decoration only it may be great, but for long prints that need to be durable and paintable then it’s useless.