newbie adventures: printing a violin

Hi all,
First of all, I know I am crazy for jumping in the deep end before learning to swim, but there is something in me that rebels against printing countless cubes or tugboats so I can learn technique, etc. So I know my ignorance is prolly blatant and appreciate any input/correction/advice you might proffer. I’m a kinesthetic learner and can only read so many sets of instruction before looking like a deer in oncoming headlights.

I found what I think is a really cool project called the “Hovalin”, it’s a 3d violin copy of a Stratavarius that can be printed in 4 pieces. http://www.hovalin.com/make/

I wanted this to be my first project using Slic3r and my LCD to print. I loaded the plan into Slic3r, then onto my card. I found the file on my LCD and went to print, nothing happened. Having some time off and not being able to figure it out, I went back to Cura and connecting my computer. I tried to print the middle piece 2x, but had sticking issues both times and canceled the prints early on. After thinking about it, and trying a few things, I checked the bed level. I didn’t expect it to be out of level, since I’ve only printed a couple of things since getting the printer and leveling it initially. Upon checking it I found the X axis to be significantly off from the left side to the right. My brain is still new to this and I didn’t expect to be out of level, but I went to setting the level and ran into the same thing I did a few weeks ago, i.e., the level adjustment screws are to short to adjust the amount I needed to to level the bed. After playing with it, I finally decided to adjust things on a more gross level, vs the fine tune of the screws (a lot of you may be saying “duh” at this point). I disabled the stepper motors and turned the right side to bring the bed more level, started a new print and had no sticking issues, so apparently I was extruding into outer space the first to times. (there is a little voice in my head asking why/how it got out of level so quickly, that the 2 stepper motors may not be running in synchronicity, but for now I am ignoring the voices in my head).

I used eSun ABS and just used the beginner settings provided by Lulzbot (“intermediate” setting with brim, nozzle 240 and bed 110). Overall, I’m to new and ignorant to be less than jazzed (this is still way cool to me that I can make a violin from a piece of plastic string). Here’s my results. The Hovalin site said this “mid” part would take 4 hours, it took me 14 to print (a long time to tie up the computer, I really need to figure out how to do this from the card). The first 5 mm look kinda rough, almost bubbly, then it smooths out pretty nicely for the remainder of the print. I had three instances where corners didn’t stick for about 7mm, but it doesn’t affect the structural integrity, just tells me something went wrong at those junctures.



Looks nice! Once that’s done you’ll have to make a Cello to go with it heh.

Thanks piercet,
I have your cool cello in my sights, starting with a mini cello first.

This is the bottom part of the violin, and the second part I am printing. It’s the biggest part of the 4 part violin measuring ~9"x, 2"y, 7"z (when done). I resolved the SD card issue and am now printing from the card, which I’m grateful for because in the pics below I am 15.5 hours in to the print and still going.

I also switched from slic3r to simplify3d and am impressed by the overall difference (increase) in quality of print. After reading input in this forum about slicer programs, many veterans recommend that newbies become familiar with Cura and slic3r before making a jump to a pay-for slicer like S3d. I kinda get that advice, I think, but personally am glad I made the switch at this juncture. From what I have read, all 3 programs can provide fine results, but from a newbie standpoint I am finding getting those results is much easier to do with S3d, making it easier to learn on the fly. That may just be my experience, but there it is for what it may be worth to the reader/s :slight_smile:.

My only issue on this print remains some layer separation on the corners, otherwise I am very pleased with the detail/quality of the print. Watching the difference while printing between the slic3r and S3d was like watching a pro ball game vs little league, it seemed so much more refined (again, I might be able to get there with sic3r, but I like that S3d did it for me overall giving me breathing space to tweak the details). The Hovalin plans recommend PLA and I am using ABS @ 240/110 temps. My rationale is: “it’s a violin and may be exposed to higher temperatures in the trunk of a car.” I am thinking of printing the neck from PLA (purely for aesthetic reasons, the body of the violin is red(ish) and I have some black PLA, am thinking the two will look good together). I guess I will try “slurry” to mend the separations, this part is otherwise worth redemption to me and is structurally sound. Am thinking I will bump the extrusion to 245 and create an enclosure to try and solve the corner separation when I print the top of the violin.

Okedokee. I printed the top of the violin and used PLA (which is the type plastic Hovalin recommends). It turned out very well, no real issues (pic below). I also printed the neck using PLA because I wanted the contrast between the red body and the black neck. However, since i had the corner separation issues with the mid and bottom parts of the violin.

I ended up having to patch using a slurry I made with acetone and support parts of the printed pieces. The color is not exact, and it’s obviously patched because of the filler and subsequent sanding. I’m considering whether to print the top in ABS once I get an enclosure made for my printer to solve the corner layer separation issue, then print a mid and bottom part in PLA and have 2 violins made out of each material? Or just use the PLA top with the patched ABS mid and bottom portion and then paint the whole thing to make it match?

Would appreciate input on mixing the two? Also advice on painting? Am thinking of leaving the neck unpainted since it seems it will get the most wear and I do not know how paint would hold up? Also, curious about the seams between the body parts, whether to bond and paint it as a whole or paint the body parts separately (the Hovalin is not bonded, just held together by keys). I’m inclined to bond and paint to make more finished product, but wondering whether the seams will hold up with play?

Thoughts?

Thanks all.

You can bind the seams with PLastruct Plastic weld, which will attach PLA to ABS just fine. Having the seams sealed would actually improve the sound, as it would force air out the F holes. You can finish the seams with Squadron white or grean model putty (which is also good for smoothing ridges) and then spray with a plastic primer and finish with whatever type of paint you want to put on top. Hobby airbrush paints work well, so do rattle can systems like Duplicolor Metalcast. I have an Iwata HP-C airbrush setup I use to spray smaller things that works quite well.

Thanks piercet,

That’s a good point about seams and sound quality. I did not know if binding would hold up to the flexing I assume will happen with string tension and playing. There are channels in the interior of the violin that will hold a carbon rod to give added rigidity.

Do any use slurry and/or juice to bind or fill in? Is it not as effective?

I decided to print the rest of the violin in PLA. My first two ABS parts were not as refined as the latter, I think a combination of using S3d and PLA contributed to the better quality. Once I get a heat box built, I’ll complete the ABS violin as well. I work 13 hour shifts, so I started the last part a few minutes ago and it should be about 2/3 done when I get home tonight. Excited, it’s looking really good. Kinda wishing I had something other than black PLA, but thinking the print quality is good enough I will not paint this one. I’ll post more pics, for those interested, when the last piece is done, then also once I get the strings and string it.

The amount of flex you will see after it is tensioned will be minimal. There will be constant tension of the strings pulling on the ends but about the only time that will be relaxed totally is if you are changing a bridge out, or storing it long term. That being said, the amount of pressure applied is actually alot lower than it seems like it would be. I think it will hold up just fine.

I do not use any sort of ABS Slurry or juice. It’s just messy and unneeded. Squadron model putty basically is a thicker form of ABS slurry anyways. it’s basically plastic filler particles supended in a small amount of acetone based glue so it bonds well. It’s inexpensive, works great, and is less messy than making slurry.

Looks like it’s going to be a nice Violin!

I ordered parts to design the worlds first 3d printed Viola next. Everyone forgets about that one, but you need a viola to make a 3d printed string quartet and so far near as I can tell, no one has made a 3d printed one.

The amount of flex you will see after it is tensioned will be minimal. There will be constant tension of the strings pulling on the ends but about the only time that will be relaxed totally is if you are changing a bridge out, or storing it long term. That being said, the amount of pressure applied is actually alot lower than it seems like it would be. I think it will hold up just fine.

I do not use any sort of ABS Slurry or juice. It’s just messy and unneeded. Squadron model putty basically is a thicker form of ABS slurry anyways. it’s basically plastic filler particles supended in a small amount of acetone based glue so it bonds well. It’s inexpensive, works great, and is less messy than making slurry.

Looks like it’s going to be a nice Violin!

I ordered parts to design the worlds first 3d printed Viola next. Everyone forgets about that one, but you need a viola to make a 3d printed string quartet and so far near as I can tell, no one has made a 3d printed one.

Cool!. I’ll find out about the tension. I’ve finished printing all the parts in PLA, I think they turned out really well. I need to order tuners, strings and bow… also a carbon rod to insert into an inner channel in the violin. Am guessing that is to give added strength and contribute as a unifying factor between the three body parts.

Thanks for the input on the Squadron model putty, I plan on picking some up today and giving it a try.

I look forward to the Viola print. I love printing musical instruments. I’d like to find plans for a flute. I’ve seen one project, but don’t know of any plans available for the general printing population, other than the simple whistle type flutes.

For those following this project. Here are the printed violin parts, unassembled and just pushed together. I need to but a carbon rod that inserts into a printed channel in the body of the instrument. Also, tuners, strings and bow. I’ll post pics when it’s fully assembled.


Finally received the chrome tuners I ordered (a few weeks ago) and was able to string the violin. Here’s the finished product. I may end up fusing the seams and painting it, depending on the view of the sound quality from my musician friends who play. I was pleased with the finish from the PLA prints vs ABS and would kinda hate to cover it with paint, but the seams may affect resonance to a degree where I’ll need to.

Nice work!

Thanks piercet,

I just rosined the bow and tuned it. It has surprising sound quality, but already broke an E string tuning it (thankfully have a spare). I’ll be curious to see if it can hold tune.

Strings will stretch over the first couple weeks they are on, and it is not unknown for a string to break shortly after being installed. You shouldn’t be discouraged if it goes flat on tune a few times in the first couple of weeks. I had a cello string do the same thing to me. It’s been solid ever since though.

Cool! Thanks for the positive input. I am thoroughly jazzed by the whole process of what we can make from plastic string.