Budashnozzle 2.0 replacement parts listed incorrectly

Until I can sort this out anyone ordering replacement parts for their 2.0 hotend should be advised that I just learned first hand that info on the support guide & in the store on the website is incorrect and you will buy the wrong parts. I will have more information on this development come tomorrow morning when I can get someone on the phone since I cannot hail anyone on IRC.

-Tom

I’m sorry to hear that! Would you mind sharing the links to the information in question? I’ll check with my colleagues to see what’s going on, and if anything needs to be changed make the corrections. I do apologize if anything is in error. We’ll get it corrected soon! I’ve sent you an email as well.

Thank you for your patience!

C

Are you on IRC at the moment? I received no email?

http://www.lulzbot.com/support/replacing-your-budaschnozzle-heater-resistor-or-thermistor
These was the link you had me go to when I called you earlier this week when I shorted some components out.
We can talk tomorrow in the AM on the phone I will place a call when you guys become open for business tomorrow.

Thanks! I’ll have some information for you soon. Any corrections that need to be made will be done as soon as we have the info.

I don’t see anything incorrect on that page, so if someone finds something, please post it so we can get it updated.

Thanks,

-Jeff

We’ve done some research on the parts listed in the thermistor/heater Resistor replacement guide.

The heater resistor link points to our 6.8 Ohm resistor. Our part listing has this part number: RWM06226R80JA15E1 and this link to our copy of the data sheet.

Searching that part number on Digi-key results in this part: RWM06226R80JA15E1 which has the same data sheet listed that we have posted.

Mouser has the same listing for the resistor and the same data sheet we are using.

Multiple users have successfully used our 6.8 Ohm heater resistor when replacing the stock heater on our Budaschnozzles. Unfortunately sometimes the parts may be out of dimensional spec or on the outside range of allowed tolerances (+/- 1mm in their case). Hopefully you’ll be able to get an exchange from where the resistor was purchased.

Thank you for letting us know about a potential issue, we strive to make sure that our posted information is accurate.

Dear Forum Readers,
(This was written prior to Claudio’s most recent post I just did not get around to finishing the post till after a work call I had to take)
Everything has been resolved with Claudio.
However I still suggest better outlining replacement part sources and specific part # directly in your support section, a video would go a long way too for your support guides or pictures.

Basically it ended in I made the smallest mistake in getting a wrong length (3W output(like many other hotends use) instead of 7W) resistor, ( you should also note that I could have gotten a 4.7 Ohm like the burned out one in my unit (could not read text on it due to damage)) and basically tough cookies on my thermistor that is exactly right but .16mm larger than the burnt out one and thus does not fit into the heater block. So my options are try to get a refund from digikey on something that costs almost nothing or file/machine out the hole and void the remainder of my Buda 2.0 warranty.

Regardless I won’t be able to get this printer up & running for another week + at least as I am not going to get rush shipping again from digikey or any other source for $50.

My end decision here is I most likely will the components I need to get this up and running and then put in for a Prusa Nozzle or a B3 Pico (if it ever releases). I would prefer a all metal hotend that can handle a powerful heater core with a consistent diameter instead of a resistor.

-Tom

From what can be read over on the RepRap forums, the Prusa all-metal nozzle is not exactly a success. As a matter of fact you cannot purchase one at the moment, as it is currently being completely redesigned. I would wait until they figure things out, which may take a few months yet.

In the meantime the E3D metal hot end may be a better choice.

Hmm, thanks for the heads up!
I noticed some issue with it just as an engineer and sent Prusa an email with some questions and some suggestions but my guess is the forums are way ahead of me there. Yeah I checked out the E3d but I do not want one I have to mount a fan on that close to the forming part. i am curious about the QU-BD whole extruder system which is still similar. I am hoping for the Pico since well it looks like they actually ran some pre-lim thermal FEA sims on the design. I think I might start designing one myself just for kicks and have it made by protofab for me!

Thanks again Tom for pointing out a potential issue! We strive to be as accurate as we can but we recognize that we too can make mistakes. We’re currently overhauling our support section/user manuals to improve the quality and depth of our documentation, so thank you all for your patience!