After going through the calibration routing, it seems that the calculator has the X value inverted.
After running it at the initial settings it suggested a 0,920x and a -50.15y, this increased my error in the X direction and inverting it to -0.920x seemed to bring the calibration squares into alignment…
Yes it is inverted, I am not sure why they didnt correct this during testing. Maybe they didnt test it? I totally stopped using the dual extruder and swapped it back to single for another reason. It is VERY hard to align both nozzle, especially the T1. It makes most of my dual colour printing or support printing ugly. I’ll stick to the single nozzle for now.
What order are you loading your models and in what order are you selecting the calibration models? Which guide are you using?
I added the models as listed in the guide https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/TAZ-6-dual-extruder-v2-tool-head-installation/accessories/
Also, when having the spools double stacked as shown, I had an issue with the PVA coming off the spool and almost knotting on the hook. Performance is better just putting both reels on the lower hook. These hooks really should be metal rods to reduce friction while extruding.
In addition to JasonT question, the tutorial itself is not mean for newbie of 3D printer. I can’t understand the estep configuration part. In the guide it tells us to take note of the esteps behind the extruder for configuration later. Which is e0 and e1. When I reached the part where it instructs me to configure the E2stps/mm value then I’m like what??(ಠ_ಠ)??? Where is the e2 ? I am only shown e0 and e1 behind my extruder (╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻
Btw JasonT, you can print PVA fine? Your combination is PLA + PVA or ABS + PVA?
The tutorial is not meant for newbie. The Dually’s are all advanced user tool heads.
As far as the hot ends on the tool head, the rear is T0 and the front is T1. When asked to enter Esteps in the LCD display it will have
Esteps for T0 and it will have E1 for T1. Just remember in whatever menu you are looking, the T0 or rear extruder will always be listed first.
It will be the same for the Esteps listed on the back of the Dually E0 will be T0 and E1 will be T1.
Hope this helps.
I’m really having an issue with my dual extruder also. If these guys can’t get their instructions right and if everyone is having such a hard time with the dual extruder, why are they still selling it? The way I see it, if they aren’t going to get their hands wrapped around these issues, they should be offering a full refund. The dual extruder that I purchased doesn’t even line up correctly when I installed it! What a complete waste of $500!!
Looks like I’m not the only one that is extremely disappointed with the dual head v2.
I’ve been trying to set up the dual head for months, always tweaking with the alignment of the two nozzles as well as the levelling and trying many, many prints but have so far not had a single good print with them together.
I agree about the full refund. It’s quite atrocious to pay 500 usd for a tool head that I never had a good print from.
For now I’m going to buy the new prusa with the multi filament feed thing and give up on the dual head. Don’t get me wrong, the taz 6 is a great machine for the single head. The dual head, total bloody waste of time and money.
Amen! I also want to reiterate that I LOVE my Taz 6 with the single head…it’s unbeatable (except for my Dremel Idea Builder 2.0). I just do not get why they do not post the correct instructions on their website? If someone DOES end up getting their dual extruder head and wants to print with the single nozzle, why aren’t there instructions posted for that, instead of “copy and paste gcodes” and all these terribly complicated methods?
Guys, believe it or not, we are not all programmers/developers/hackers, ok? Some of us idiots (myself included) need to be spoonfed, need training wheels, are “n00bs”, of whatever derogatory term you want to refer to us as. So please understand my frustration when I drop $500 for a piece of equipment that I “assumed” would be bulletproof…but you know what happens when we assume!
AGREED TO ALL OF THE ABOVE. It is so hard to find owners of Taz 6 to share this issue with. There are only a handful of people owning Taz 6 due to the price tag. As such, I can hardly find any answer to the problem, other that just posting here. I made a huge mistakes, I bought not only the dual extruder tool head, BUT the flexydually too (>ლ) It’s the same design, and of course same problem exist. because I have confident in them, but boy am I wrong lol. I don’t even want to unbox the flexydually tool head. I’m thinking of full refund for both the tool heads, but i bought it from matterhackers.com unsure about their refund policy.
(ノಠ益ಠ)ノ彡┻━┻
My Dual extruder V2 is fine on my TAZ 5… The toolhead really isn’t for the faint of heart. I’d definitely not recommend it to people new to the machine. As for buying two toolheads well… that’s more of an issue of deep pockets and feature greed 
The calculator was fine for me… I didn’t have to invert any numbers as mentioned in the thread.
Getting T1 calibrated depends highly on the calibration of T0. The auto-level function of the TAZ 6 may convolute this process. In any case, nail the T0 initial layer height (may need to adjust the Z-offset in the LCD). Then tackle the T1 calibration… understand the adjustment screw its counter-intuitive. Turning the screw CCW lowers the nozzle, CW raises the nozzle.
Personally, I found adjusting with an allen wrench inconvenient and use a thumbscrew that aligns with the hex and snaps onto the socket cap. This allows me to print a small calibration object to quickly determine get the right T1 height. The thumbscrew cap I use is attached (both single color and dual color)… its a really tight fit requiring a wrench, make sure to align the center hex.
M5 - Thumb screw.Color2.v8.stl (78 KB)
M5 - Thumb screw.Color1.v8.stl (207 KB)
M5 Thumbcap.SingleColor.v8.zip (19.7 KB)
I guess what I was trying to say in my original post was that those who actually created the dual head and wrote the installation and setup directions need to re-examine things. Letting others, who aren’t getting paid, under the guise of “open source” tends to make some people lazy. I believe that this is the case.
The only problem I had with the original installation directions was turning off the ooze shield… I think they’ve updated the instructions to turn it off in Cura.
Other than that I really had no issues… the calculator wasn’t inverted for me.
In any case, patience is definitely required to getting used to the dual extruder.
i may have an update. I got to the right values by xchanging top for bottom and left for right values in the calculator. It took me a day and 12 iterations to understand how this bloody thing works. I think its a bug, or they understand something different under the term: TOP 
Still the dual extruder gives me a hard time. I’m using the flexy dual extruder V2 on TAZ6. The guy in the factory has such a bad handwriting, that I#m still not shure if the E-Steps number is a 4 or a nine.
I’m into 3Dprinting for 2 years now, using Ultimaker 2 and 2+ for hundreds of hours. I saw a lot of possible hardware issues, but alignment of the dual head is still a blackbox, also cause the 3D printed mount of the big toolhead moves a lot back and fourth. If you have the nozzle calibrated for this print, it can be miss calibrated at the next one.
At the end, its about price. If you charge 500 bucks for something that is beta. C’mon…
I don’t know why you think the toolhead is “beta”… It’s version 2 of LB’s dual head design, and to my knowledge an improvement. Its not perfect, but it works. Don’t have any experience with the Ultimaker line, but if its more “Apple-esque” then you’ve definitely bought the wrong machine… there will be gremlins. 
Regardless, it gets easier as the toolhead becomes more familiar. And I’m only speaking from the TAZ 5… the TAZ 6 could be different. I’m sure they appreciate any help from the community with documentation. The machines and workstation at the factory are probably do not cover all the different permutations that happen in the real world…
As for the e-steps… once you get things worked out, its best to double-check them. Here’s how to determine/calibrate the e-steps.
Well, glad you’re getting somewhere with the toolhead…
So glad I found this post. I’ve done the “Dual Extruder calculator” 3 or 4 times. But the calibration squares never looked to be better aligned afterwards.
Gonna invert all values and report back. Hope I have enough filament to print out the keychain 