Not everything I want to print need two extruders. I have used it as a single extruder a few times and have not been able to keep Extruder 2 off. Should I just leave extruder 2 on and hot or should I just set the temp to zero? Basically, what is the best way to set this up as a single extruder and is there an issue with doing this?
Leave the unused extruder off. No sense in having it heat up filament and possibly creating a clog from prolonged heating of the filament.
With S3D you can specify one extruder or the other (leaving the other off). Not sure how to do it in Cura… you may need to set the non-used extruder temp to zero as you suggested.
I would definitely turn of the second extruder, or the filament will clog you nozzle. I would of thought in S3D you have two or three options
1 set the temp to 0 but this would still use you start script and push material through when its cold so setting the temp to 0 after the start sequence is preferable.
2 create a script that only uses the head you want to use either T0 or T1 I did this and had print sequences for the Left or Right Head
in cura I dont think you can set the temp to 0 it has a standby temp of about 170 so I think you would still have to alter the code…
In S3D, there’s an option to use T0, T1 or Both… when configured with a dual extruder.
I was hoping that the extruder would truly be swap-able so that I could take the dual off when I was only printing a single color. I have a lot better luck with my Single Extruder, the Dual v3 seems to jam up a LOT and generally very stingy.
I have enough trouble with a single extruder knocking over my tall prints, it’s more than double the risk because they might be close, but I rarely get the nozzles exactly level. I have some prints where you can see one color drag the 2nd color across the face of the print.
It looks like Lulzbot may be fixing this with the “Universal Tool Head Adapter”. It looks like they are finally switching to a swap-able connector and not those crappy Molex Crimp pins.
Hmm… the two toolheads should be swappable. You’ll have to flash the firmware on the printer each time.
As for getting the nozzles level, comparing the extrusion thickness of a calibration pattern works best for me on the TAZ 5. Lock in the initial nozzle height then adjust the second (T1/E2) nozzle height by turning the right-side lead screw (an eighth or quarter turn at a time). Each time the lead screw is adjusted print the T1 pattern for comparison with the T0 pattern extrusion width.
Not super scientific, but faster than the LB recommended method to loosen the heat sink and adjust.
In S3d I just set one print to 0C temp and I offload the auto leveling to a single starting script so it only heats and cools once.
In cura, I think you could set up a new material and then set that temp to 0 so it doesn’t heat up. Though I remember I found another way to do it so it never heated up, but that was months ago - I’ll post if I run across it.
I just use s3d now with a profile setting one off. I’d be printing right now if not for a bed leveling issue that may have come from my recent move…
Good luck!