a little worried right now

well after a lot of reasearch i finally bought a printer ( i’m a cnc guy) already having an issue with open gl on my graphics card… however after looking at the forum i seem to be seeing lots of other issues… did i make a big mistake i think i can still take it back if i keep it will i be working on this thing for hours on end to get decent prints… i thought this printer was good out of the box?

Your printer should work out of the box, reach out to our support team at LulzBot.com/Support if you have any questions our would like any advice. They’re in seven days a week and can help.

Did you get your graphics card/OpenGL working with Cura LE?

ritmopat

don’t get disheartened before you start, you picked a decent printer (taz) and results will come, there is a learning curve, you only get out what you put inn… stick at it youll enjoy it… and when you have a problem ask,

3D printing in general isn’t as developed of a technology as CNC machining is. I also jumped in with a background in CAD design, machining, and injection molding of plastics. There are limitations of 3D FFD printing that are completely different than the rules-of-thumb for injection molding. I think if you are going to do it at all, the Lulzbot is a good choice. It will work right out of the box, if you start with the standard benchmark objects. I strongly suggest that.

Where it gets more difficult is when you start using the printer for more random stuff. It really helps if you are designing what you are printing so you can keep the limitations of the process in mind and design around them.

You’ll need to download the Cura Lulzbot Edition so you can maintain the firmware on the printer, if for no other reason. I use (paid for) Simplify3D now, since I like the interface better. I think you can adjust the same stuff in both softwares, but I find the interface more intuitive in S3D. I don’t think I’m alone with that.

What I’ve learned recently is to have a standardized, simple, ‘calibration’ object you can print to test settings for changes of filament, after maintenance, and changing slicer software. I modeled something similar to a checker game piece, or maybe a poker chip. Just a round disk 1" in diameter and .25" high. It prints fast (as 3D printing goes-it’s a slow process).

If you make any changes to the machine, the most important setting you will have to optimize is the probe Z-offset. I just went through that myself. The poker chip thing was invaluable in that process.

After optimizing with the chip, I printed the biggest thing I’ve ever done in the Taz. It’s a toolrest for my bench grinder. I always hated the one it came with. I was very heartened that it came out perfectly the first time. It took pretty much a day and half the night, so I was glad I had worked out the problems with the chips.

Sorry to have rambled, but I guess my message is ‘stay positive, but prepare to work for the success you can achieve’.

-Ed

What I’ve learned recently is to have a standardized, simple, ‘calibration’ object you can print to test settings for changes of filament, after maintenance, and changing slicer software. I modeled something similar to a checker game piece, or maybe a poker chip. Just a round disk 1" in diameter and .25" high. It prints fast (as 3D printing goes-it’s a slow process).

Here’s a printable coin that’ll serve the same purpose. Don’t let the raised octopus version splash the pot: http://download.lulzbot.com/3D_Models/LulzBot_Coin/

3D Printing is, unfortunately, not at a point of being plug-and-play technology. There will be problems, which can usually be resolved with some research from the forums. And if all else fails, Lulzbot Support is pretty good.

The TAZ printer is a good investment. Follow the start-up guide and you’ll get good prints out of the box. A few basic tips:

  • Understand the auto-level methodology and mechanism which works on electrical continuity. Keep the pad, nozzle and discs clean. “Elephant foot” (first few layers wider than rest of object) is the first sign that something is wrong.
  • Remove parts from the PEI surface when the temp is below 60C
  • Don’t pry printed objects off the plate. Use a spatula or similar thin, flat tool to “work” your way around objects for removal.
  • Good troubleshooting guide.

Hope some of the tips help.

My Taz 6 worked right out of the box, and has continued to work for almost 3yrs straight. Just hang in there and work with the team and community. I’ve also had a Taz 5 for just about 5yrs. both run about 20 hrs a day on average

Thanks for the support everyone…i’m off and running… glad I bought a good out of the box printer… see y’all down the road