Lulzbot Taz 6: Different Nozzles

A forum dedicated to the stock LulzBot TAZ 3D Printer
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HiddenplannetX
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2019 10:59 am

Lulzbot Taz 6: Different Nozzles

Post by HiddenplannetX » Wed Jun 19, 2019 11:13 am

I want to try and print abrasive material (carbon fiber, glow in the dark) but is my only option getting getting an adapter and a HS tool head? Can I instead just swap out the brass nozzle with either a ruby, a tungsten carbide nozzle, or a hardened steel nozzle?
I am not planning on printing a lot of abrasive material so it doesn't seem worth it to shell out $600 on the specialized tool head.
I also had the same question about trying to print with a smaller nozzle diameter for more fine details.
I know that this would violate warranty but I was hoping for some information. I currently am running a Lulzbot Taz 6 with the standard single extruder

B-Hep-Spring
Posts: 59
Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:55 am

Re: Lulzbot Taz 6: Different Nozzles

Post by B-Hep-Spring » Wed Jun 19, 2019 12:46 pm

I am no expert but id rule the ruby out as its not helpful with bed levelling unless you want to go down that route but I wouldn't its complicated enough without disabling a feature?? - Bed levelling

if its the std head I would look at taking the nozzle out either get a replacement
from
https://itworks3d.com/product-category/ ... itan-aero/

but a few words from what I was going todo, the nozzle has to be removed HOT and inserted HOT the std nozzle has flats and makes it harder to get hold of and if you make an earthing contact you could blow something...

all with the fact that the filament you are going to use might ware the head not the nozzle...

I was going to make a wire harness to connect the head on the desk and heat it up just connecting the temp sensor and the heating element. limiting the risk of a short...

hope this helps ???

JoeBowler300
Posts: 116
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2016 12:20 am

Re: Lulzbot Taz 6: Different Nozzles

Post by JoeBowler300 » Wed Jun 19, 2019 9:29 pm

The ruby nozzle won’t work on the TAZ 6 because the auto leveling feature is sensed through the nozzle via capacitance I think. Never put anything conductive on the nozzle (i.e. wire brush, water, wrench) on the nozzle while the printer is on else you’ll probably blow the micro fuse and have to deal with having to replace that.

When I swap out my nozzle i’ll Run the print head up to 200 to 250mm on the Z, heat up the nozzle to 260C then turn off the printer. With a crescent wrench I’ll hold on to the heater block and use a 7mm wrench on the nozzle. Like B-Hep-Spring said, the original nozzle has two flat sides and curves between the flats, meaning you can’t use a box wrench or a socket, you’ll have to use an open end wrench. There’ll be a good chance the new nozzle will be six side and you can use a socket, sooooo much easier then. Just do the reverse steps with the new nozzle, put it in cold(whatever the current temp is from your removal). Then heat up the head to 260C, turn the printer off, hold the heater block with a crescent wrench or channel lock pliers, give it a little tightening twist for snugness. Be careful to not over tighten as you can break the nozzle. Be sure to get the appropriate size nozzle. I can tell you the dual v3 uses a “volcano” type nozzle and the standard print head and aerustruder print head use the standard length nozzle. All M6 type threads.

I don’t think it’d really be a problem running special filament through a few times with the stock equipment. You’re aware those filaments have abrasive additives and that will wear down softer metals faster than the parts made for that made with harder metals. Swapping out the nozzle is easy and fairly cheap. I seen a post on here not too long ago pointing someone where to get a hardened steel hobbed bolt. Those would be the two essential parts that handle the abrasive filament.

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