Extruder Struggling

[Theycallmejohn]

Piercet,
Thanks for the guide. It was very useful. With a little help from the Reprap IRC (I didn't know how to access the steps with the Arduino but they showed me how to do with the G-code,) I was able to update my steps. If my measurements were correct I was off 5 steps but I didn't have time to do a test print.

Where do I do the drop in nuts? How do I do that? Do I need to pause?

I don't need to generate support material, right? Based on the STL I saw it looks like it has support material already built in. I was just concerned about some of the gaps for the nuts.

Sorry for all the questions, I am just trying to baby the extruder along and don't want to have to print several of them via trial and error.

With regards to 3D printing, I understand what Albert Einstien meant when he said:
“The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.”

I would like to do some of your upgrades once I figure out how to get what I have working well and some what reliably. I have all the parts for the 60mm height increase printed and on my desk.

[piercet]

You're welcome, glad it was helpful! And I have no problem answering questions heh.

Yes, you are correct, the extruder main body already has the support material built into it, it's basically a print and go, though I like to print them with a brim so the base doesn't lift off the bed since sideways it is long and skinny.

Once you have the main body printed, you drill out the material left where the center hobbed bolt will go, drill out the mounting locations for the NEMA motor, and by hand using your fingers run a drill bit through the filliament hole itslef to make sure it is round to tolerance. After that, you drop two nuts into the top tower of the extruder body above where the hobbed bolt goes, in between where the Idler closes and the NEMA motor. once they are in, the idler bolts screw into them from the side. The nut chamber is supposed to allow the bolt to pivot up and down to allow the bolts to engage or disengage the idler itself. Those are the bolts you want to swap out for longer ones if you use the extruder idler latch, which makes that whole process much much easier because then the damned springs and washers aren't getting hung up on everything when you try to latch the latch.

The base is where the two larger nuts sit for the bolts that attach the nozzle itself. The only other tricky one is the nut that goes in the idler, which is a press fit into the inside usually. If that one strips the nut chamber, it can make removing your existing idler really really fun.

[Theycallmejohn]

So just a follow up on this. Been printing Lulzbot Green for a while and no jams!

I sent Makergeeks an email about the problems I was having with there filament and they sent me out a new roll for free. The problem is within a day of going back to thier filament is I have had two clogged nozzles. (Very frustrating) So to my Lulzbot brethren and sistren, I would not recommend the Makergeeks ABS.

[piercet]

I've noticed that some poorer quality filliament seems to have particles of filler in it. mabye ground plaster or wood dust? I've never figured out what it actually is, but its grainy and makes for bad prints whatever it is. Those are the ones that seem to print poorly for me. I had one memorable roll of ebay special blue 3mm filliament that I don't think I ever got anything to print correctly off of.

I'll snag a really good deal on wierd source filliament from time to time, but buying the good stuff from lulzbot usually pays off better in terms of quality. I've never actually jammed an extruder all the way, but I can see how it could happen with the bad stuff.

[Theycallmejohn]

I think my printer hates me...

So after replacing a fried thermistor and checking the bed calibration while it was cold with a sheet of paper. I then ran a calibration test and the peek liner broke.

Any suggestions on a new hotend. Its too hard to get replacement parts for mine. I don't know how I am going to print an adapter though....

[piercet]

I'd buy a new peek isolator since they are cheap, get that one working again, then print a mount for an E3DV6 or a Hexagon hotend. If you decide to go crazy with the mods, my new ballscrew one converts the AO-10x into a TAZ X carriage, so you can use the existing TAZ mounts (and the dual extruder)

[Theycallmejohn]

Do you know a good way to dissolve the old PLA Build up on the threads?

[Theycallmejohn]

I'd buy a new peek isolator since they are cheap, get that one working again, then print a mount for an E3DV6 or a Hexagon hotend. If you decide to go crazy with the mods, my new ballscrew one converts the AO-10x into a TAZ X carriage, so you can use the existing TAZ mounts (and the dual extruder)

Piercet,
Do you know where I can source some additional PEEK insulators? I founds some knockoffs but they don't say which version they are for and I emailed sales at Lulzbot and the response I got left me with the impression that it will be awhile before they have any more (if ever.) I used my last peek insulator.

On a more positive note. I have been getting great consistency on my prints recently now that I am using good filament and have all the bugs worked out.

J

[Theycallmejohn]

I jinxed myself because I just had another peek insulator fall apart on me... it just fell out of the hotend when i had it set at 235.

Very sad face...

[Orias]

What temperature is the hot end peaking at when you set it to 235? How fast are you printing when you have it set that high?