A101 and budashnozzle

A forum dedicated to the stock LulzBot AO-101/AO-100 3D Printer
drmacro
Posts: 50
Joined: Mon Apr 15, 2013 5:03 am

Re: A101 and budashnozzle

Post by drmacro » Tue Jul 18, 2017 12:30 pm

piercet wrote:Sure. But don't get that one, it's a piece of junk. Thats a bowden tube setup, they have pros and cons, usually they result in stringy parts. Either way, that setup or using an extruder body setup for an E3Dv6 in place of your stock one (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673312) you are still going to have to tinker with firmware and wiring. if you are comfortable with that, go for it. It will be a massive quality improvement.
I realize that one is set up for bowden tube. I guess my query was that the criteria for mounting any hot end to the extruder is that it bolts up so the input (top end) to the tube in the heater block is close to the output of the extruder.

How does one tell the one I happened to pick is junk and the one nearly 5 times the price from this source is any better?

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Printer-Cooli ... direct+12v

(not trying to be sarcastic or anything, I just want to know how I would go about telling.)

And the firmware tinkering is because the thermistor is different?

User avatar
piercet
Posts: 4000
Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 1:37 am
Location: Battleground, WA
Contact:

Re: A101 and budashnozzle

Post by piercet » Tue Jul 18, 2017 5:16 pm

drmacro wrote:
piercet wrote:Sure. But don't get that one, it's a piece of junk. Thats a bowden tube setup, they have pros and cons, usually they result in stringy parts. Either way, that setup or using an extruder body setup for an E3Dv6 in place of your stock one (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:673312) you are still going to have to tinker with firmware and wiring. if you are comfortable with that, go for it. It will be a massive quality improvement.
I realize that one is set up for bowden tube. I guess my query was that the criteria for mounting any hot end to the extruder is that it bolts up so the input (top end) to the tube in the heater block is close to the output of the extruder.

How does one tell the one I happened to pick is junk and the one nearly 5 times the price from this source is any better?

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Printer-Cooli ... direct+12v

(not trying to be sarcastic or anything, I just want to know how I would go about telling.)

And the firmware tinkering is because the thermistor is different?
The real ones are made from decent metal, and have a properly polished inner bore. the fake ones are sometimes made from plated pot metal and will fail catastrophically and most likely not work. The only real way to tell is source. I've never seen one of the cheap chinese ones work right. Sometimes they catch on fire when the heater block burns, destroying your 3d printer.

The firmware tinkering is due to different thermistor, different heater core, enabling the fan pins, and diffferent maximum temperature ranges so you can actually use the thing at full temperature. You can copy many of the values from the Taz 5 firmware.

User avatar
Theycallmejohn
Posts: 243
Joined: Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:05 pm
Location: Huntington Beach, CA

Re: A101 and budashnozzle

Post by Theycallmejohn » Tue Feb 13, 2018 3:11 pm

For what its worth, I changed to a J-head from hotends.com and have had much better luck. Also a slightly damp sponge wiping the filament can help with the future.

Haven't tried the Hexagon yet.

Post Reply