RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

A forum dedicated to those intrepid few, that have built their own TAZ 3D printers using our KITTAZ.
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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Sat Mar 28, 2015 8:58 am

I added dampers to X, Y and Z. They were quite easy, easier than Y for sure!

Yes, you can use those screws. The dampers come with screws for both sides too. Both work fine. As long as you have the damper flange with the through holes on the motor side and the flange with the threaded holes on the mounting side to the TAZ, orientation doesn't matter.

good luck!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

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KosmoPi
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by KosmoPi » Sat Mar 28, 2015 10:11 am

Well, I am done with the Y axis. took me about an hour and a half to remove, install the bearings, the new rods, and the dampener all for the Y bed. My panavise jr was barely up to task of bending back the bearing holders to get the bearings out. It was easier to put the new steel bearings in than it was to get the old ones out, probably only because the polymer ones have an end on them that has ridges, and that sort of digs into the skin a bit when you push against it with your thumb, unlike the steel bearings which are smooth.

Also, I think those bearing holders actually got bent a little bit, because when I went to install them on the Y plate (on most printers it is called the Y 'frog') the holes didnt quite line up as easily as before. Once I snugged all the bolts, I loosened them back up and re-snugged them and they went back in a little easier, basically I think I was bending back the bearing holders flat against the Y frog the first time.

Anyway, everything is back installed and the bed slides smooth to touch, but not quite smooth to the ear, which is bothersome. Seems a little loud actually. We will see if it is loud when printing...

Next up is the Z dampers I guess.

KosmoPi
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by KosmoPi » Sat Mar 28, 2015 10:13 am

and dang it I have the bed oriented wrong! most annoying, but maybe it will fix the sound of the y travel.

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Sat Mar 28, 2015 10:14 am

Metal bearings on metal rods are going to be a little raspy and loud. A little machine oil will help. You probably won't notice it when in operation.
Last edited by mhackney on Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

KosmoPi
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by KosmoPi » Sat Mar 28, 2015 10:28 am

Thanks, Yea, when I flipped the Y bed around to proper orientation, some of the noise went down and motion got WAY SMOOTH actually. And dont worry, I have these things PLENTY lubed. I accidentally spurt out way too much one of the bearings, and I am running the plate back in forth to sop up some of the oil that is running everywhere with a paper towel. :lol:

KosmoPi
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by KosmoPi » Sun Mar 29, 2015 7:54 pm

Quick update:

I had to do some other things right after installing the Y axis upgrades, but eventually I finished up the upgrades this weekend, maybe a total of 6 hours. The Z axis was the easiest by far, since everything is separate. The X axis seemed the toughest to me, but I just had a hard time getting one of my old rods out of the brackets. After that it was relatively smooth.

I havent actually finished connecting everything back up, as I mean to do normal maintenance at the same time (grease the z lead screw and put on a fresh PET film on the bed). I will be back up and running in no time. Then I will re-calibrate perhaps using mhackney's guides this time to see just how tuned in I get my machine!

I will evaluate during calibration how the upgrades all turned out. I cant wait to hear a quieter machine!

brettsalt
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by brettsalt » Thu Apr 16, 2015 3:21 am

mhackney wrote:I was surprised no one grabbed RazzMaTAZZ to name their printer! I'm going to document the build and plans to evolve this printer into a high resolution, double wide (24" x 12" X-Y), single-nozzle dual extrusion (Cyclops) system. But, I'll start with the basics...

Everything nicely packed and labeled.

Some quick observations: I was impressed with the quality of the printed parts and especially the pressed-in brass threaded inserts. Nice touch will result in easier assembly and a stronger, better overall build.
I completely agree with what you said in regards to the brass threaded inserts, having such good quality parts will definitely make the build more powerful.

KosmoPi
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by KosmoPi » Thu Apr 16, 2015 3:50 am

KosmoPi wrote:Quick update:

I will evaluate during calibration how the upgrades all turned out. I cant wait to hear a quieter machine!
My machine is fully up and running, and these upgrades made a big noticeable difference. My test prints all came out significantly better than my previous time. The whole thing is awesomely quiet now too.

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do-it-for-science-
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by do-it-for-science- » Thu Apr 16, 2015 2:53 pm

I am going to be doing these upgrades for sure, first things first though I need to get the octoprint up and running on the bb black I got.
as far as your plans for making it dual printing with the cyclops, how do you plan on dealing with the changeover time between colors? do you just use the changeover period for infill?
open source, open heart,

Jeff Hunt,
Renewable Energy Engineering student OIT

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:44 am

Ok, I have a LOT of upgrades and enhancements to add over the next week or so as I finish things up. These can all apply to KITTAZ, Taz 4 and Taz 5 printers with minor firmware tweaks. Here's what I've done:
  1. developed a 3 point bed mounting system with FSR (force sensitive resistors) at each point for auto bed leveling and Z homing. No probes and you can print all the way to the corners and edge as there is noting to interfere.
  2. upgraded to an E3D Cyclops dual extruder - this is the version with 2 input filaments and 1 nozzle. The E3D Chimera has the same form factor and could be used instead - it has 2 filament inputs and 2 nozzles. This upgrade includes a mount for the TAZ carriage that I'll post later.
  3. upgrade to 2 SeeMeCNC ezStruders with geared steppers mounted on the upper cross frame with Bowden tubes to the hot end. This removes a lot of weight from the carriage (less sag problems, faster travels/prints). This upgrade includes the dual stepper mount, geared stepper adapter.
  4. I used the existing connectors to the electronics box and added new pins where needed to support the 2nd stepper, a hotend cooling fan and the 3rd wire to the Z endstop to support the FSRs. This makes for a relatively neat assembly.
  5. Marlin firmware changes to support the above.
I have done several simple single color prints but I have several firmware issues to work out that are perplexing. And unfortunately, the
Marlin document site has been down for a week or so. For background, I'm using the Marlin firmware source for the TAZ supplied by Lulzbot - the startup screen shows 2014Q4. I want to grab the latest Marlin release and do a complete upgrade but I like to do things methodically one step at a time if possible. My issues are twofold:
  1. PID autotuning is not working - it just sits there and does nothing. I posted about this in another thread earlier today so I won't repeat it all here. Using the command "M303 E0 S200 C8" and nothing happens (the hot end does not start to heat up) in Repetier host I see it continually cycling between waiting for 1 command and Idle. Very odd.
  2. I don't see any compensation after doing a G29. The G29 probes my 3 points and reports the coordinates for each. I see that there is a little variation in Z as expected. When I print I don't see any adjustment in Z. I think I may understand this now - I issue G29 from the console and then print after its done. Apparently, G28 home deletes the transformation matrix! So, when I print there is nothing there. I need to add G29 to the gcode header after G28 and give it a shot. But I'm working on the PID now since it has to start dead cold and I don't want to heat up the hot end until it's sorted.
Now for some photos:

The new Cyclops/Chimera mount. I'm still working on a fan attachment system.
Image

The dual extruder mount being printed.
Image

and an early prototype so you get the idea.
Image

Here's the 3 point FSR mount. I designed these for my delta printers but they work just as good here.
Image

Image

You can see some videos of this stuff in action with homing and G29ing here:

http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/p113199630 (go to the end of the gallery)
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

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