RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

A forum dedicated to those intrepid few, that have built their own TAZ 3D printers using our KITTAZ.
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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:58 am

Ok, I've been spending all of my time the last year with more advanced firmware on my deltas (Smoothieware and RepRapFirmware) and haven't spent much time with Marlin (I used Repetier in the old days). I don't understand how the EEPROM settings stuff works on Marlin. On Repetier it was easy.

I edit my firmware, compile and upload. Let's say I changed the PID values manually in the firmware. EEPROM and Echo are both enabled. When I connect, I see the old PID values. My understanding is/was that I could M502 to load the firmware values (which should be updated) and then M501 to save them to EEPROM. An M503 shows them. This does not work!

Great, as I sit here writing this and looking at the RepRapWiki G-code docs, I see it says under M502 that it must be followed with M501 to store the settings to EEPROM. That's wrong! M501 READS from EEPROM, M500 WRITES to EEPROM. So, doing an M502 followed by M500 works. I do an M503 and see my updated settings. Got to love open source "documentation"!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Wed Nov 04, 2015 10:22 am

Ok, I have the auto bed leveling stuff sorted. That was the issue, G28 deletes the transform matrix that G29 creates. And there is no way to store the matrix in EEPROM. So, inserting G29 into the gcode header did the trick and I am now printing an impossibly thin first layer perfectly! I need to do a little tuning on the probing to get it spot on. FSRs are known to need a little Z offset with printers with a bit of flex in their beds. I have to do this on a couple of my deltas but my Rostock Max has a very rigid bed and it is spot on without an offset.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

nbmoretto
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by nbmoretto » Wed Nov 04, 2015 1:20 pm

mhackney wrote:Ok, I have the auto bed leveling stuff sorted. That was the issue, G28 deletes the transform matrix that G29 creates. And there is no way to store the matrix in EEPROM. So, inserting G29 into the gcode header did the trick and I am now printing an impossibly thin first layer perfectly! I need to do a little tuning on the probing to get it spot on. FSRs are known to need a little Z offset with printers with a bit of flex in their beds. I have to do this on a couple of my deltas but my Rostock Max has a very rigid bed and it is spot on without an offset.
I am currently in the process of ordering parts to do the rail replacement along with dampeners. I was wondering if you are going to share a write-up on the FSRs as this is something I would love to add to my printer. Also I heard that high temps with FSRs could be a problem, how to do you plan on using a heated bed with that?

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Wed Nov 04, 2015 1:36 pm

Yes I am going to write it up and share the mounts, etc. I just need to get everything working and finalized.

I use a small PLA printed "plunger" that fits into the mount. A silicon disk that acts as both a force spreader and insulator sits between it and the FSR. I've run this with 100° beds for 12+ hours with no problems. On the TAZ I adhere the plunger directly to the silicon heater with flexible CA adhesive. I've tested this at temperature for many many hours and there are no problems yet. Simple and effective.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

nbmoretto
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by nbmoretto » Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:48 pm

mhackney wrote:Yes I am going to write it up and share the mounts, etc. I just need to get everything working and finalized.

I use a small PLA printed "plunger" that fits into the mount. A silicon disk that acts as both a force spreader and insulator sits between it and the FSR. I've run this with 100° beds for 12+ hours with no problems. On the TAZ I adhere the plunger directly to the silicon heater with flexible CA adhesive. I've tested this at temperature for many many hours and there are no problems yet. Simple and effective.
Great I am looking forward to this. Being my printer is in an enclosure I have the bed at 90 but so if oyu can have 100 at 12+ hours that should work fine for my case. Thanks for sharing everything, ordering my parts today for the hardened rods and bearing upgrade.

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:51 pm

I'm not sure how the FSRs would handle being at 100° like they would be in a heated enclosure. Mine are insulated from the hot bed but the silicone disks so they are not actually warm at all. It's worth a try though.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:05 pm

Well, after struggling with oddities in Marlin (lack of direct support for multi extruder through 1 nozzle, odd homing behavior, etc) I decided to migrate to Repeater. Perhaps it's more intuitive to me since I have experience with it. But, it supports the Cyclops natively and has much better auto level support. On Marlin, you got a right triangle with little control over where the points are, with Repetier you can specific precisely where the 3 points are. That's an advantage for my FSR system. I have FSRs arranged in an equilateral triangle (approx.) and it is ideal to probe directly over the FSRs to get the most reliable/reproducible probe.

The menu support on the GLCD is much better too, there are many, many more features on the LCD so it is much simpler to print using only the display.

I made more progress in 30 minutes - which included configuring and flashing Repeater - than I did in many hours of struggling with Marlin. Homing works perfectly, G29 probing works perfectly, the FSRs are working like a charm and I'm working on tuning the Cyclops for multi color printing.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:10 pm

nbmoretto, are you heating the chamber? What is the average temperature in there?
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

nbmoretto
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by nbmoretto » Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:26 am

mhackney wrote:nbmoretto, are you heating the chamber? What is the average temperature in there?
I am not heating it, the heat from the bed and nozzle keep it pretty warm, I am hoping to get a thermometer in there soon, just need to find a decent cheap one.

Also finally placed my order for the hardened rods upgrade along with dampeners.

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mhackney
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Re: RazzMaTAZZ - my KITTAZ Build

Post by mhackney » Thu Nov 05, 2015 10:14 am

Ok, then I don't think you will have any problems. I doubt if the temp inside is that high.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art

Start here:
A Strategy for Obtaining Great Prints

Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts

The Eclectic Angler

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