Hi all, I was printing with some scrap material, which seemed to be melting at lower temperature than HIPS, so I assumed it was PLA. I indeed got one print done successfully, but when I tried to print again, filament started seeping around the nozzle, and then the nozzle popped off. Could anyone tell me whether I need to get a new hot end, or whether I can simply push the nozzle back in place? Our printer is shared, so if I need to buy another I would like to know ASAP.
Your threaded nozzle has broken off inside the hot end. It looks like it was leaking and someone over-tightened it and caused it to break. You cannot just push it back in, if it is under warranty still contact support about a replacement.
Thank you both for the replies. Does anyone know if I could use a E3D replacement nozzle like this from Amazon [ http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010MZ8VDK ]? Another option is this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EX4FAT4. I’ve contacted Lulzbot support as well; my coworkers tell me it is under warranty, but again I’d like to get it fixed ASAP.
E3D V6 nozzles do work. I actually prefer them because they are longer than the Hexagon nozzles and will tighten against the heat break rather than the heater block. They seal better that way and prevent the over tightening failure you just experienced. I have had no problems running them on my Taz printers but have not tried them on the Mini. The only problem I can imagine is that the pointy nozzle will be hard on the wiper pad.
If you are using a longer nozzle it will help if you adjust the Start G-Code for wiping not to go that deep into the cleaning thing.
Find this line
G1 Z0 F1200 ; CRITICAL: set Z to height of top of scraper
and adjust the Z0 to a value that reflects the new length of the nozzle. I.e. if the new nozzle is 5mm longer than use Z5 and check the cleaning result.
I am not sure if and were the start hight for the Bed Probing has to be adjusted.
I wouldnt worry about the start height for bed probing. The E3D v6 nozzles are around 2mm longer than the stock nozzle from the heater block to the tip. It is a good idea to change the wipe g-code as you stated but the probing will work as it did with the stock nozzle.
You could grab a hot end assembly from i-t-w if you wanted to get up and running fast as you get the warranty stuff done. As you said it was a shared unit. Could make a good spare down the road incase an issue like this comes up again and you can be up and printing in just a few minutes. https://itworks3d.com/product/hexagon-3mm-hotend-assembly/