Bed levelling time and misalignment

Hi there, I’ve got two queries.

Starting a print takes nearly 10 minutes from clicking go to laying down the skirt. It’s so frustrating especially when I have a print that only takes 3 or 4 minutes to print. I can’t start a print without blocking out at least 30 minutes at a time for preparation, cool down, etc.

I am wondering if there is a way to speed up the procedure? What would happen if I skipped the gcode? Anyone else done this?

My second issue is that I think either my head or my bed or both is slowly becoming misaligned. When the cleaning routine runs, the head narrowly misses smashing into the printed pad holder. It then runs on an angle back toward the middle-right of the cleaning pad. Afterwards, the levelling routine seems fine on the left side, but on the right it comes very close to missing the metal washer, I’d say it’s about 1mm or less to the edge. Is this normal? It feels like it’s getting worse. My printer is 2 years old, is it possible it’s slowly becoming misaligned? How would I fix this?

I am interested in hearing about a solution for the head nearly hitting the wiper, mine also does this exactly the same way as yours! I’ve had my mini just over a month.

You need a firmware change to skip the leveling. If you try it without the start gcode, it will air print over the bed. Someone tried making a firmware that remembers the leveling points and only wipes them if you do another leveling, but had some problems with it. I find the leveling probe itself doesn’t take that long, and it isn’t much faster to just heat/print. That’s not the case if you pre-heat everything of course. Just heating the bed takes almost 10 minutes if you’re getting close to 100C. If I know I’m going to print soon, I pre-heat the bed, and heat the hotend to 140C. Then it starts cleaning right away, levels, then heats the hotend to final temp. Still takes a few minutes, but it’s a little faster.

I don’t know on the second question. Mine gets close, but doesn’t sound as bad. The only thing I can think of would be to snug up the endstop switches to make sure “home” really is where it should be.

I have no solution or idea about your first problem, but the second sounds like mine in this thread:

https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/y-axis-0-endstop-question/4486/1

TLDR: the new firmware uses front Y endstop but the back endstop triggers too soon to have a decent Y=0 from that, it can be resolved by printing a new Gladiolia Y-motor mount.

Hello All,

The most common reason for the nozzle running into the wiping pad holder is because the whole Y table has been out of alignment.
If you will look down where the Y chassis mounts hold the Y frame assembly to the frame of the printer, you will see 4, 3mm button head cap screws (Allen) that will have to be loosened a little. Then you just tap the entire Y assembly over so that the nozzle is centered on the wiping pad and then you tighten those screws back down.
This will help significantly! then just watch the bed leveling, so that you ensure that the nozzle is still touching down properly on all 4 corners.

I hope this will help!

Regarding the previous response. This would be for the Taz6. If there is an issue with the Mini (solid frame), then we would need to see a video at support@luzbot.com, to see if we could see what the cause is. Sorry if I was not clear on this!

I am currently in a 10 hour print but I will contact support with a video once done, I also have a couple of other questions regarding the bed also!

Hi David! Can you be more specific or post pictures of the 4, 3mm button head cap screws? I am experiencing this same issue and having trouble finding what you are talking about.