By “touched too hard”, do you mean the washer was deflected downwards, and it still keeps “rewiping” after the first washer? If so, that may just mean the nozzle is dirty. It is also possible there is a wiring fault between the board and the bed or nozzle.
Properly calibrated for travel, a nozzle that is dirty (such that it doesn’t make electrical contact with the washer) would be expected to push the washer downward about 1-2mm before triggering the “re-wipe and re-probe” sequence. With a clean nozzle (and assuming good wiring), the downward travel will stop immediately when the nozzle touches the washer, and the probing will move on to the next washer.
Check that the nozzle is really clean. Manually heat it up to ~200C, and give it a good scrub. If you have some “green non-scratch scotchbrite” (intended for cleaning metal cookware), that works really well. If not, folded paper towels or a cotton rag will work – just be careful not to burn yourself. Also flip or replace the white wiper pad – if that has a bunch of old plastic residue, it may actually make the nozzle dirty (add plastic to it) rather than cleaning it.
After making sure the nozzle is really clean, try another test (reset the G92 command to 161, as recommended before). If it still pushes down on the washer and does the rewipe every time, then the next step is to check the wiring.
To check the wiring: The first quick test is with a multimeter. Make sure the meter is set for DC Volts, and on a scale appropriate for 5v. Turn on the printer. Connect your black probe to one of the bed washers. Carefully touch the nozzle or aluminum heat block (stay well away from the heater wires!) with the red probe. Make sure you’re touching bare metal, and not leftover plastic. You should get a reading of +5.00v. If so, the wiring is likely OK – although you may want to repeat the test with the nozzle and bed in a few different positions, as a broken wire can be intermittent based on where the “bend” in the cable chain is at).
If you don’t get +5.00v there, then there may be a broken wire (either from the board to the bed, or from the board to the nozzle) or there is a bad connection somewhere. First check that there is a Black wire coming out of the bed cable chain, and terminated to the aluminum bed (this is on the underside of the bed, near the front-left corner). Next, check that there is a Red wire terminated to the aluminum heat block (this is just above the heater cartridge, on the left side of the heat block).
If no voltage is detected and those two connections look good, the next step will be to open up the control box and check the wires end-to-end from the board to the nozzle and the bed. Turn off the printer, unplug it, and open the control box. Find and disconnect the plug connected to the “Z-min” socket (should be red and black wire on your printer, see step #4 in following instruction to help locate):
https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/86510011-df83-408c-a220-1dcf8c5a7262/mini/ Use your multimeter to check the wires. The Red wire should have continuity to the nozzle / aluminum heat block, and the black wire should have continuity to the bed / washers.