Mini Bed Probe Failure

Hello,

I’ve had my mini for probably two years now. The nozzle continuously cycles between the cleaning pad and very firmly presses the first bed washer.

I receive this error
Recv: Rewiping
Recv: Rewiping
Recv: Rewiping
Recv: PROBE FAIL CLEAN NOZZLE

Video Link:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kmo2nn20cjnb27i/vlc-record-2018-07-04-17h02m20s-2018-07-04%2016.42.18.mp4-.mp4?dl=0

I’m recently disassembled the nozzle ass’y to unclog some lingering plastic inside the nozzle, had about 10-15 successful prints since then. Now I’m not getting continuity between the nozzle and the bed washers, while the machine is idle.

How does one go abouts fixing this?

Thanks

Check your z axis leadscrews. Its possible that the x axis is misaligned because one side is higher up than the other. Rotate one leadscrew until its even with the other one.

1 Like

You need to check your sense wire from the nozzle end to the connector(X18) on the control board. It may have fallen off or the wire has broken over time/use.

So X18 is six pins with only a two pin blue/black connector? not getting continuity with either the black or blue wires to the hot end.

Also not getting continuity between the nozzle tip and the hot end; is that normal?


If you do not measure a short between the nozzle tip and the screw on the heat block you have an issue right there.

On the mini your bed leveling is going to be connected to the Z-min end-stop spot on the board. The red goes to the nozzle and black to the bed.
Z-min.jpg
The blue and black cable you have unplugged in your picture is for the physical Z-min switch. The minis 1.03 and below have this installed on the left Z carriage but the minis 1.04 and above do not.

I noticed one thing that’s unrelated to this issue but could cause issues in the future. You’re heat-sink is slipping down and getting close to shorting out some componants on the board. If you remove that you can prevent some future issues.


I agree with kmanley that your main issue is going to be from the nozzle to the screw. If there isn’t continuity there you’re not going anywhere. You mentioned taking off the nozzle to get to a clog. It’s possible but I don’t think too likely that there is some plastic in between the nozzle threads and heater block insulating the electrical connection between the two.

It’s also possible that there’s a small film of basically invisible plastic on the outside of the nozzle insulating it. I’ve experienced this mostly when printing with Nylon. Even after doing cold pulls with Nylon I’ll have issues with auto-leveling until I clean the outside of the nozzle really well.

Would you mind giving the out-side of the nozzle a good cleaning with a scotch brite pad, or something else abrasive but non-conductive? Try heating the nozzle up to the extrusion temperature of the last plastic you were printing with when wiping down the nozzle. This is what I’ve found helps most with getting Nylon cleaned off. Using this higher temperature than the normal wipe routine can do the trick in these cases.

OK! its printing again

So when I was cleaning the nozzle (I re-drilled the inside of it) I reassembled the nozzle using loctite blue; which is non-conductive. I re-cracked nozzle threads and re-tightened and its conductive again.

I used lacquer thinner melt way whatever thread adhesive was on there before. What adhesive should be used?

According to our OHAI for assembling hot-ends it’s Resbond 907TS Blue thread sealant
https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/lulzbot-3mm-filament-hexagon-hot-end/hot-end-tool-head-assembly/