Hey guys im new to 3d printing but hoping to learn very fast, ive been tinkering with settings but so far only have the natural ABS filament and thats all ive gotten to use so far. ive made a few different things and not too many issues but this newest print has been a little difficult. it is a stopwatch by “thegoofy” on thingiverse and it contains many small parts and alot of them come out fine its just a couple that reliably come out battered no matter how i tinker the settings so far. im printing with .2-.25mm thickness but this guy said he printed mostt he gears at .1 hes got a makerbot but i dont think thats as good as the taz 6!? when i go that thin my prints come out too thin and sloppy with extra string filament all over the print… so my problem is this, one is a gear with the diameter of a penny and 1/4in thick, the gear comes out ok, but from the top center protrudes a 2in long x about 1/3in diameter rod and the last 1/2in is hexagonal in shape as opposed to the cylindrical form its starts as with a pinhole down the whole length, i wish i could post pictures from my computer on the forum here… it prints good for the first inch or so but then the layers start getting screwy and it starts to look chewed up. any ideas what the issue may be? also i have the TAZ 6 and i havent done any sort of printing calibrations, the initial machine and print instructions didnt say to calibrate because the taz 6 has a self leveling bed but ive heard mention of that so that may be it does need it, idk, if it does where might i find out how to calibrate it? any help would be great Thank you !! and please help!
That print us a very, very, very complicated first print. Quite frankly you shouldn’t attempt that until you master printing calibration objects. It’s also very difficult to print that in abs.
As to the issues you describe, you are probably getting lifting from the print edges. Try adding a 6mm brim layer, bumping the bed temperature up 5 or 10 degrees, and also measure the exact diameter of the fillament with vernier calipers and make sure that value is in Cura to prevent over extrusion. You will want to read up on extruder calibration, and advanced settings in Cura when you get a chance too. And you can post pictures here eventually. I don’t know if there is a post count restriction on those now, but usually you just upload the pictures during the posting process.
There shouldn’t be, have you run into any issues? Let us know if any problems pop up, we will be happy to look into them!
I haven’t, but I have a bajillion posts so if there were any post count restrictions I probably wouldn’t see them. Many forums have a “you must have 10 posts to post an image” restriction in place to prevent porn spam though, so I was just wondering if that was why he couldn’t post images.
You can display an image through a link by using:
[img]http://image.link/here[/img]
You can also use the Attachments tab below the text entry box and upload an image and have it displayed inline with your text post.
We just verified that a new user can post an image through both methods with no restriction.
ok i figured out how to put in a a picture. i didnt really try all that hard last time i only saw the Img button that forces me to use an html link to insert an image… so sorry for the scare there forum overseers 
so heres the picture… its not having any problems sticking to the print bed… its having problems maintaining a thin form as it gets further from the print bed
![WP_20161229_22_01_04_Pro[1].jpg](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/business7/uploads/lulzbot/original/2X/d/dec20dea6f270569730a6066af3888a81a6b6b19.jpeg)
Essentially, there is not enough time for the previous layer to cool before starting the next layer. You can increase cooling in the expert settings, but it may be easier to print multiple of these objects on the same plate. This will allow more time for cooling as the print head is moving back and forth between the two objects.
Give this a try and let us know how it goes!