Are these all for Taz 1 through 3, or speicifc Lulzbot models?
What does each do, obviously there are lots of settings but wondering what is the description or top level explanation of each, i think it would be helpful to have a readme in this directory.
I am just curious as to which would be a good one to start with on my first print on the Taz 3 out of the box.
35nzl_draft.ini - lower quality, higher speed settings for a .35mm size TAZ nozzle
[ ] 35nzl_support.ini - Printing with generated support material settings for a .35mm size TAZ nozzle (extra removable plastic to hold up pieces that normally would be impossible to print)
[ ] config-200s.ini - Looks like maybe a standard base profile for a .35 nozzle
[ ] high_quality.ini - Slow speed, high output quality profile settings for a .35mm TAZ nozzle
[ ] high_quality_alt.ini - An alternate slow speed, high output quality profile
[ ] high_speed.ini - High speed, low quality profile
All specific to taz because of the bed size. CHange the bed size to 200 x 200 and they would work with an AO-100 with a .35mm nozzle for example
I would assume with all these profiles one would still have to manually go back in and adjust the heating temperatures (by default im guessing the profiles might be PLA but not sure).
Also when looking at 35nzl_support.ini this states that basically the settings to enable supports are there, but does anyone know at what quality its set? or should i just assume standard.
out of the box on the Octopus print, which one of these profiles you think most people go for on their first run?
I am asking because its my first time going through this and i would rather crawl then walk then run, so I am being a bit cautious in understanding and asking questions. I have read the manual and in many parts they do mention standard settings, they do not always. Also while the manual does state all the settings in detail, it does not for each setting state best practices. I am concerned in messing things up, so thanks in advance for helping me with these questions.
Embedding heating temperatures in the profile itself has a strange side effect. the machine won’t print your piece until the temperature is “Exactly” what you set it to in the profile. It can take it 5 or so minutes to figure out that last .10 degrees when you really don’t care and just want it to print because it is close enough. On the other hand you can hit print, and it will print when it is at temperature rather than having to watch it. I find it saves time to just use the interface to set the default and current temperatures rather than using slicer. I’d say the default support one is set at about average, quality. The infil is fairly low, but the layers are smaller too. It’s also only running it looks like one or two perimiters.
I’d start with the higher quality one. You can always try for speed later once you understand the settings better.
So where do u set the temperaturs then? i assume you do it in Printrun i assume its got to be set somewhere, otherwise i assume if not defined the heating will go too high.
Only if users create it. You should play with the setttings on a part and see what they do. I used their settings as a reference then made my own for Slic3r and it made it so much easier to use other slicers too. I use Kisslicer more than slic3r because it just gives cleaner prints.
My high quality slicer settings for the AO-100 are basically 1. print with brim 3mm, layer height 0.1mm. first layer height 250%, Enable automatic cooling for small parts, minimum 3 perimiters, 85% infill, and all the “quality” options checked. It seems to work with the new rails, and adds about 2 hours to a 1 hour print. I’ll post the actual ini content later when I get back from work.
Yes, even with the .5mm nozzle. Most of the stuff i’ve uploaded here has just been processed with my standard settings though. I’l print something interesting with the HQ setting this weekend and post it.
Here’s the high quality AO-10x settings. This produces very hiugh quality prints with a .50mm nozzle, but takes a very large amount of time to process. someday i’ll get the .35mm nozzle on and this should work even better with the nozzle setting suitably adjusted. Take the text below this line and copy it into an ini file and you should be able to import it.
generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC2 on Sat Jan 18 20:14:48 2014