I am about to install the Flexy Dually v2 on my Taz 6. Its been sitting on the bench for a couple of months, but now I really need to do some dual filament prints.
Wondering if I should be planning to go back and forth between the regular single print head for single filament prints, and just use the Flexy Dually for dual filament prints? Or if the Flexy Dually will work as well for single filament prints as the original print head that came with the Taz 6…
It looks like the nozzle is .6 mm although I don’t see this documented anywhere. Cura is specifying .6mm in the default profile. This makes me wonder if the Flexy Dually won’t produce a slightly lower level of detail compared to the standard .5mm nozzle…
The nozzle is a .6, it’s documented in the BOM. It’s necessary to allow sufficient flow for the flex filament. The detail loss is only in small corners, you can still print very thin layers though too.
My first flexy dually print.
It’s a motor driven roller. Although you can’t see it in this picture, it has the motor shaft profile printed into the end, and a hole for the set screw in the side.
It is printed using PC-MAX and NinjaFlex. Which makes it “experimental” since a profile for PC-MAX and NinjaFlex doesn’t exist in Cura.
Looks like it will work. Well see if the PC-MAX shaft can hold up under the stress, and if the NinjaFlex is grippy enough. The production part is currently made from an aluminum shaft with a polyurethane 40A tube adhered to it. This will require less manufacturing effort – if it works.
To answer my own question, I am switching back to the single extruder tool head for single material prints.
The .6mm nozzle on the Flexy Dually isn’t giving me the same detail as the .5mm nozzle on the single extruder.
I don’t see any logical problem that requires the two nozzles to be the same size. It only prints with one extruder at a time, and only one layer at a time. Is it just a software limitation with Cura?
Doesn’t look like Simplify 3D has the same problem as Cura. In Cura in dual extruder mode, you basically can only set the temperatures different for each extruder. Everything else has to be the same.
It looks like in Simplify3D you can set up each extruder separately, which will allow it to run significantly different g-code for each.
I wonder if you can replace the .6mm nozzle for the rear extruder with a .5mm nozzle and then use Simplify3D to get the same quality printing out of the rear extruder as with the single extruder tool head?
In S3D you can specify either the front or back extruder for a single material print. The non-flex extruder (T0 / Back extruder) should have a .5 nozzle… if not you can also replace.
Thanks. According to the BOM, both nozzles on the FlexyDually are .6mm. I think they did this because of limitations with Cura.
Any idea how I can order a .5mm nozzle and change out T0?
That way I wouldn’t have to change back and forth between the tool heads — although I would be limited to using S3D, which I find difficult to use since there aren’t any tested filament profiles for the filaments that I use…
Hi All,
I have upgraded my Taz 5 printer from the single extruder to Flexy Dually V2 Extruder. I have followed the installation instruction provide on Lulz Bot website for the FlexyDually V2 tool head installation. After, performing the calibration routine for the Flexy Dually Extruder, I am trying to print the LulzBot Keychain.
Even after the 3-4 trial, I am still not able to print the Lulzbot keychain. 
[print.jpg]
The issue seems to me is the flexy material flow rate. The thickness of the flexy filament is very thin then ABS material.
I have used following temperature setting
ABS - T0: 240 C
Flexy - T1: 230 C
Please help
Sorry to hear about the issue with the tool head. Please check your lot numbers on the NinjaFlex and read this service bulletin:
https://www.lulzbot.com/sites/default/files/Ninjaflex-diameter.pdf
Please contact us at support@lulzbot.com if the filament is within that listing and we will get you some help for this.
Changing the nozzle will most likely void the warranty.
In any case, the key is to heat the hotend to 165C+. TURN OFF THE MACHINE… to reduce the chance of shorting anything out (Mini or Taz 6). I use a 18mm wrench to hold the heater block steady, and a 7 or 8mm wrench to remove the nozzle. After the nozzle is loose, I like vise grips or locking forceps to remove it the rest of the way so it doesn’t fall on the PEI… the nozzle will be HOT. Install the new nozzle, I like to heat the hotend back uo to 165C to finger thread… don’t strip the heater block or nozzle. Heat nozzle to 240+ and snug the nozzle again… best to probably insulate the 18mm wrench with masking tape to prevent any shorts.
Here’s a more detailed post:
https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/howto-change-hexagon-hotend-nozzle/2613/1
There’s a warranty?
?
I just installed my Flexy Dually on my TAZ 5 this week.
The alignment is perfect after 3 evenings of messing with all sorts of stuff.
Keychain print “looks” 100% correct…
…however… The black letters pop right out if you bend it. They didn’t “BIND” to the green Ninja Flex.
DO I NEED:
More head heat so everything gets more “melty”?
Faster print speed so the 2 materials make contact before the first cools off?
more overall bed heat ?
Should I disable the cooling fans between material changes?
All of the above?
Please help.
Thanks.
hyteck9
