Thats going to be either an AO-100 or more likely an AO-101 lulzbot printer. it’s basically a slightly narrower Mendelmax 1 with the motors on the bottom instead of on top. You’ll want to read through the AO-10x forum. There is no serial number on the printer, it most likely either didn’t have one, or it was on a paper sheet. You can tell an AO 101 from an AO 100 by the control box. If it has a box cover over the board, its probably an AO 101. you can post a picture here and we can tell you for sure. Temperature depends on what type of fillament you are going to print. ABS requires a bed temperature of 110c and a nozzle temperature of 235 (you cannot go higher than that with the AO-101 Buddaschnozzle, it will melt internal stuff. You have to set the temperature in the control interface software, tell the hotend and the bed to heat to that temperature, and once they reach that temperature, hit print. If you hit print before they reach temperature, the “hobbed bolt” or the thing the main gear turns that pushes villament into the hotend nozzle, will just grind out a section of fillament instead. At that point you have to open the fillament idler chamber, cut the damaged piece of fillament off, and re-feed the fillament.
It’s a 12 volt power supply, with a Rambo board of some sort (possibly a Rambo 1.1, maybe a rambo 1.2) The temperatures are set from the control software. Prointerface was what shipped with the AO 101 but you can use it with cura or repetier host without too much difficulty, you do have to change the bed size parameters to a smaller bed size. The fillament screws should have 8mm between the washers on either side of the spring +/- 1 mm (usually tighter is better there.).
The flappy thing the screws fold down onto is called the “idler arm” there is a bearing in that. The bearings for that model were not sealed bearings so they tended to gum up and sieze in place. See if that bearing moves freely, if it does not, replace it with a 608zz bearing. The glass piece held on with 4 clips should be there. It should be covered ina green plastic tape film, that is PET tape. You want to eventually put a PEI sheet on that glass. You do need the glass, or you can later replace it with an aluminum sheet with PEI on top. but for now the glass should work. The Ao-101 does not have a fillament cooling fan, which is basically required to print PLA plastic which is otherwise considered by some easier to print than ABS. You can add one, but it will require some modification and wire running. so for now I would just aboid printing PLA>
The manual, part files to replace parts, last firmware issued for that model (hint, don’t touch the firmware until you have aobut a year of experiance using the printer. Long story short, upgrading it doesn’t give you new features or capabilities or result in a more stable printer in this case, unless you do alot of code hacking. May be worth it later on, but while you are learning stick to stock) are here: http://download.lulzbot.com/AO-101/ There is also an AO-100 folder, but those are comparativly rare at this point.
It’s a good solid printer. The electronics are a little out of date at this point, but you could fix that if you wanted to later on.You could also essentially upgrade it to a Taz later. The nozzle will not print unless it has reached minimum firmware specified temperature. if the main gear is turning but nothing is coming out. check the temperature with an inexpensive automotive thermometer point and shoot unit ($30 or so)
If you find you need spare parts, check out http://itworks3d.com/product-category/parts/ . Ao-101 parts are extremely rare anymore, but they may have pieces not listed. The hotend bits would be the most likely point of failure.
Welcome to the AO-10x club! when you get familiar with using it and have a few prints under your belt, ask me about printer upgrades for that one…