Using ABS 3mm source Lulzbot
Used “Fast ABS 0.35mm Nozzle: Fast, support off, 0.27 mm layers” Slic3r profile from https://www.lulzbot.com/support/taz-slic3r-profiles
Printer at Room temperature (~67-69F)
Nozzle 230
Bed 85
Fresh Lulzjuice applied (and dried) before the print. Formula from the Lulzbot manual.
The base started off attached to the bed real nice,
From reading the forum enclosing the printer may or may not fix the issue. I plan on enclosing the printer but wonder about heating the enclosure? Does this make a difference and if one did heat the enclosure, what temp would you set it to 85 for ABS or something else?
Also understand changing to PLA may help, may try this next. But this item is going to be used outside and as I understand ABS will have a longer shelf life outside.
Hoping to hear from the community before doing another print or building any enclosure.
How did Lulzbot print the Black box seen on the home page with the printer and cat? Looks so nice and easy…
There should be a better way to do this with ABS too. Perhaps higher infill. We’re looking at it internally and will see what else can be done. It seems to have reallly warped for some reason–pretty excessively.
You may want to lower your perimiter count to 1, and increase your infill percentage. Switching to honeycomb infil may help as well. An enclosure would help.
Regarding the Enclosures, I take it the idea is to trap the heat inside the enclosure so the ABS doesn’t cool down so fast. If that is the case, has anyone tried heating the enclosure during the print and then reducing the enclosure temp over a period of time after the print. Therefore the ABS doesn’t change fast, as if your curing the ABS over a period of time. Anyone try this? If so (or not) any suggestions? Temps, times, etc
I’m thinking an Arduino with a Temp sensor, Relay switch and heater. I can put this together easy enough. Just wondering if it is worth it or not. Thoughts?
How did Lulzbot print the Black box seen on the home page with the printer and cat? Looks so nice and easy…
That box is in black PLA. I highly recommend using PLA for all gigantic box and gigantic box-like parts. That being said, I think that this part could be printed in ABS with the right conditions, material blend, and settings.
FWIW, it took a couple attempts to print that box. In my experience, getting a good slic3r configuration and .gcode can sometimes take a few iterations, especially for new users. I understand this can be frustrating, but don’t give up!
For first tries, you should check on the printer at least once every couple hours, in addition to watching the first few layers print. This will allow you to stop failing prints early, or make adjustments via the GLCD (in the “tune” and “configuration” menus). Once you have iterated a few times and have a known-good .gcode, then you will be able to start a print and let it run unattended for the most part.
I know of a couple experements people have tried with heat lamps. Those experiments didn’t work out because they applied too much heat to some areas and not enough heat in others. There were not any temperature regulation pieces in place for those though. I think it could work if you had a heat source and an air diffuser moving heated air around the part.
“In order to print such large, solid sections of Kayak, I had to modify my home-built, large scale 3D printer to print the parts inside a heated chamber so they would not warp or crack.”
It appears heated chambers Does Work! Wow. And bigger parts than I’m attempting.
There one can see some interesting pictures of his ‘Heated Chambers’. Other than he keeps his print bed at 112c I cannot find anything about the heated enclosure. Using the reflective material is the best idea I’ve seen so far. Seems to me he has a heat source for the chamber, but I didn’t see notes on the temperature of the chamber, nor if heating continues after it is printed. I do like the exhaust system! I’m writing him and will share what I learn. Anyone know any insight into heated chambers for their printers please let me know. Thank you.
I’m planning on an enclosure of some sort for my modified AO-100 at some point, using the A frame as a base. I’m going to make a pair of insulated fiberglass side pods to contain the noise and heat from the sides. then add a couple hinged plexiglass sections to form a cabinet bubble of some sort. I do need to figure out the movement path for the heated bed cable before I get too far down that project though, and that will be after I get the ballscrews in place. That whole project got a bit sidetracked by a certain green trombone though heh. I’ve already completed the base of the enclosure around the lower frame though. It’s insulated for noise and heat now. Once the bellows are done, it should be a fairly decent heat producer.
I also just picked up one of these heated beds: http://www.panucatt.com/product_p/hbp200.htm which has a top and bottom layer of heating element, and comes with ceramic insulation strips to put on the bottom of the bed to direct all the heat up. should heat up quicker than the stock one even on 12v. does weigh a bit more though, but with the rail I’m under the weight of a stock bed anyways. Also picked up an aluminum build plate to try out instead of glass, which should get some of that mass back.
“I used the heat from the heated build surface to heat the chamber. Chamber sits nicely in the 65-70C range. After a part finished, I did let the part sit until it reached room temperature before removing.”
I’ll let others know when I get this project done and how it does.
We use a small chamber built from MDF just to keep the ac from blowing on our parts. We do not use any insulation yet. It seems to make a big difference but i wouldn’t say we have printed enough larger items to say that conclusively. Were you using cooling while printing? I also noticed the delamination at the corners in the bed. I have noticed that i get some improvement on delmination of layers if my prints stay adhered to the bed the whole time. One of my assumptions is that when the corners peel up and start pushing back against the nozzle, the amount of molten plastic flowing out is reduced. With less heated mass you have less material between layers that is remelting and adhering. There is more to it but the resulting question is have you tried printing with a skirt?
