Kittaz Build Issues

A forum dedicated to those intrepid few, that have built their own TAZ 3D printers using our KITTAZ.
KosmoPi
Posts: 81
Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:46 am

Re: Kittaz Build Issues

Post by KosmoPi » Wed Dec 03, 2014 1:39 pm

JonathanB wrote:...One thing though, is that I had severe binding issues with the right z-axis and I know alot of other people had this issue also. I finally figured out that the 3D printed part that bolts onto the leadscrew nut wasn't square with the x end mount plate, so when you tighten all the bolts down, it "pulls" on the z axis causeing binding. I fixed this by completely removing the two bottom screws and loosening and just putting snug the two top screws on that part (3d printed part that bolts onto the lead screw nut). Seems to do the trick, and I can't see how it would affect performance. I'm sure I will probably end up printing a better fitted replacement part later on...
So did you remove and loosen these same screws on the Left side Z axis, or JUST the right side?

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JonathanB
Posts: 363
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2014 1:37 pm

Re: Kittaz Build Issues

Post by JonathanB » Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:02 pm

Kosmo...SOOOOOO sorry for the late reply. I had totally forgot about this thread. No, I only loosened the screws on the side that was binding. The 3D printed part that bolts(Mates) onto the "lead screw nut" has a flat surface that then bolts onto the x motor carriage (the plate that is CNC'd). Well the surface that's supposed to bolt onto that Xmotor carriage wasn't flat, it was off by a few degrees, so therefore anytime you would try to tighten down all the screws to bring it "flush" or "flat" to the xmotor plate, it would then consequently pull on the lead screw and cause binding. It was so bad actually that the lead screw actually jams and just doesn't turn if they are all tightened down. The left side didn't have that issue to I left it alone.

So on that right side, I just have the two top screws screwed in, but even then, they are just at the point of being loose, if I tighten them just slightly, then I get a bit of noise and slight binding. Basically I need to reprint that part, but the shitty part is, it's a part that's sort of deep in there, and you have to dissmantle half the printer to get at it....sorta sucks, have been trying to avoid it. LOl. But good news is, the printer seems to work pretty damn well regardless, I just check now and then to make sure the screws don't come too loose. However, I do have a slightly problem with a small offround kinks or creases in my circles, but it's not likely from that issue.

Anyway, hope this wasn't too late for you....I've been learning a lot from this experience, spending days and days doing R&D about everything 3D printing, so if you have anymore questions, lemme know. I can prob help.

KosmoPi
Posts: 81
Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:46 am

Re: Kittaz Build Issues

Post by KosmoPi » Sat Dec 13, 2014 12:19 pm

No big deal, I went ahead and tightened everything anyway, and now I will know just to loosen those screws if my x axis binds. No big deal. I am on final assembly step now, so I should be up and running to test very soon. Thanks for responding.

KosmoPi
Posts: 81
Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:46 am

Re: Kittaz Build Issues

Post by KosmoPi » Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:47 am

I just tested my build for the first time this weekend. I didnt have any binding issues so my lead screw mounts must be decently square, as I had tried it with the screws tightened. My first print turned out beautifully.

Overall the build issues are minor, you have to realize that at times you might need to file the plastic parts in order to get them to fit nicely (this is throughout the build). I also encountered a low quantity of M5x14 mm screws, both thumb and socket head. I bought a few at the hardware store, but I also contacted Lulzbot and they sent me the replacement screws right away (no charge, no hassle). I probably spent the most time and care on the frame assembly, as I wanted to ensure I made it as square as possible.

I kinda think the instructions leave you hanging once you have it fully assembled, it just kind of says go look at the getting started guide. But the getting started guide doesn't really walk you through setting the software up. I think it would be a benefit to adding more instruction to getting pronterface and slic3r set up for anyone new to 3D Printing (like installing, and configuring the settings in pronterface to point to slic3r install and etc). The TAZ4 Manual is good, but isnt helpful in first getting it started.

Anyway, if anyone wants to follow my prints they are here: aplusa3d.tumblr.com

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Orias
Aleph Objects | LulzBot
Posts: 1411
Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 1:24 pm
Location: US

Re: Kittaz Build Issues

Post by Orias » Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:11 am

We're doing some things differently with the upcoming LulzBot Mini to make starting out even easier. As we settle on how we're going to do it, we'll incorporate any helpful methods into the TAZ (and KITTAZ) manual as well.

KosmoPi
Posts: 81
Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:46 am

Re: Kittaz Build Issues

Post by KosmoPi » Fri Dec 26, 2014 9:25 am

The mini seems like a good product. Good luck with the launch.

RegB
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:33 pm

Re: Kittaz Build Issues

Post by RegB » Sun Jan 18, 2015 8:48 am

First post here, so YES this poster IS an unknown quantity :D

I don't have a Kittaz -- most of my motivation for being in this forum is to get a feel for the quality/cost quotient of the kit.
I don't have a problem with price unless the quality is poor, so to me that quotient is "value".

Just a little speculation on what you folks have been hammering together and HOW.
If it is a rod INTO a bearing, or a bearing onto a rod, be sure to drive or support (according to which piece you are HITTING) the INNER part of the bearing with a pipe or tube.
If you are trying to insert the bearing INTO a housing drive (or support) the outer rim of the bearing, again according to which piece you are hitting.
Basically the goal is to avoid damaging the bearing and this is damage that may only show later, perhaps MUCH later.
The pipe or tube will help you to get even force, avoid damage and have things go together aligned.

Socket sets can be useful for this, deep sockets especially, don't hit sockets directly with a steel hammer.
Use a block of wood between the socket and the hammer.

Personally I would rather use threaded rod or bolts in combination with appropriately sized sockets and washers to PULL bearings into cavities wherever practical.
Just too much risk when HITTING parts, risk to self as well as parts :D

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