I've finished this project now and just want to leave a few notes in case anyone else looking for help finds this thread.
After the last post I made I took a closer look at what Lulzbot sent me with Budaschnozzle 2.0c. It turns out they had already sent me everything I need to make the hot end disconnectable and no extra crimping was required. They had sent wiring to connect at the RAMPs board for the heater core and thermistor and a 4 pin connector at the other end to plug in the connector on the Budaschnozzle. It was very easy to connect the wires at the RAMPS board; there was a 2 pin connector for the thermistor wires and the heater core wires are just inserted into a hole and then a screw is tightened to clamp them down for a good connection. The most work was probably just removing the black spiralling wire cover that routes the wires, and that wasn't too bad.
For the stepper motor I did go ahead and cut it's wires and crimped on the 2 4 pin disconnects. If you are planning to the same it's important to note that the housing bodies piercet called up in his earlier post are correct, but the pins and sockets are not. They will not even fit in the housing bodies. The pins I used from Digi-key were part numbers:
WM2510CT-ND for the female pins
WM2517CT-ND for the male pins
I used HT-225D crimping tool which I ordered on Amazon. I saw it recommended in the forums here and it worked fine. I hadn't done any crimping before. If you haven't either I recommend doing some research on Google & youtube, it's very helpful. Check out this guide from Molex, it has pictures of what good crimps and bad crimps look llike. If you don't have a magnifying lamp I recommend getting one because the crimps are very small and a magnifying lamp makes it much easier to see what you are doing.
After reassembling the hot end to the printer I leveled the bed and did a print. It was a z-axis acme coupler because I had broken one when I was trying to figure out why my old hot end wasn't working anymore. I managed to glue it back together with acetone to make the printer functional again. The new one printed out like a dream with the new hot end.
Thanks piercet for getting me on the right path with this project.
A forum dedicated to the stock LulzBot AO-101/AO-100 3D Printer
There is a rubber connector that goes from the bumper into the trunk. You can disconnect the bumper wiring from inside the trunk by prying the approx. 2-inch diameter rubber grommet out of it's hole in the trunk sheet metal, then you can disconnect the socket.
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