New controller and firmware

So after much testing I’ve determined that my control board has partially fried itself.

So, now I am trying to install a Geeetech GT2560 (Ultimaker clone) in place of the half dead Mini RAMBo but i want to make sure I get the settings right. Im using the Trinamic SilentStepSticks (one more reason for the swap, GF cant stand the sound of the running machine) and a beefier DRV8825 for the Z-axis.

Yes, I know its not a direct swap. Yes, i know I may lose some features.

Any help would be great appreciated

I’ve contemplated a similar replacement when I fried my mini RAMBo, but decided against it for time saving reasons. Still extremely interested in your ventures if you succeed!

Ultimately, the boards are similar to each other, what I dont know are the exact settings needed for endstops and setting up the auto leveling. I downloaded the Marlin version for TAZ and fiddeled a bit with it but this is still fairly new to me.

Just sucks that 3 weeks after dropping $1050 on a new tool from Amazon and it fried all cause the connector for the electronics cooling fan fell off the board. It got so hot that the heatsink on the z-axis driver MELTED off.

Add in the noises this thing make gives my GF a major headache and if I need to do a long print, it keeps us up at night even being in another room with a box on it and closed doors.

I just quickly threw a look at the board but can’t see it seperately driving 2 z-axis stepper motors, can one stepstick handle that you think?
And, did you do the y-axis stepper damper upgrade? It’s of VITAL importance to Mini owners. The new Mini has it by default I think.

Correction: I see it has double z-axis output, just wondering how it’s powered. Through a single or extra stepstick?
Hmm… so the mini RAMBo also drives it’s dual Z with a single A4982 stepper driver that’s rated 2A, so that shouldn’t be a problem if it isn’t a problem for the RAMBo.

My machine is only about 2 months old.

As far as power handling, pretty much every board has one driver for 2 z-axis motors. Even the Mini RAMBo uses one driver for the 2 motors.

What upgrade are you talking about?

I did try that for a while, but all it seemed to do was lower to motor, and drag the chain over the screw heads. I tried to reposition the pulley on the motor using brand new Allen keys, but they are on so tight they stripped out so I can’t reposition the stupid thing to the right elevation. And yes, I also know of your redesigned tensioner piece. But right now it’s of little use to me when my only machine dosent even work correctly anymore.

The modifcation does need the pully to be placed higher at the motor shaft and it should make a big difference in the resonance caused by the metal frame, at least it did for me. I was lucky I could loosen the pully, but had similar problems with the x-axis pully. I read somewhere AO applies loctite to secure them.

I would hope they would use locktight for something like that. That also means heat is needed to release the glue, such as a small torch.

The damper made a huge difference for me. There is some kind of loctite on the set screw for the motor. I had to pull the motor off the machine and use a lighter to burn the loctite off before could loosen the set screw. When I re-installed the pulley, I had to flip it upside down so the set screw grabbed the far end of the shaft.

As far as the noise is concerned, make sure the printer is on a solid, heavy surface. Also, if you have it in a box to reduce the noise make sure the box is not touching the machine at all. If it contacts the frame anywhere it will just act like a speaker and amplify the sound.

so dose anyone one have any ideas on what i need to do for settings on this new board? Id like to try and keep the bed leveling settings as much as possible. just wish I could find marlin versions of the mini firmware like i can for the TAZ

well, as someone who has worked in the car stereo industry for the past 11 years, I’ve got a few ideas on noise reduction and things that can cause noise :stuck_out_tongue:

So, an update on this. I found a source for the firmware and got it loaded onto the GT2560. Now is just have to change out all the plugs on the cables… every single one… Shift the new board into a spot where I can hang a USB cable clear of everything. I also got it set up for a 12864 screen.

Ill post more once I start changing all the plugs out.