Nylon and other stuff PEI adhesion. Solution for newbies.

Filament
1

Hi guys.

I know that majority of us dont experience any problems with PEI, but there are some exceptions. For me it was Nylon. It was constantly unattached during printing process, usually at the beginning, but sometimes at the end.

I tried some stuff to replace PEI for nylon. Hard paper seems to be great material, however it is hard to fight paper deformation when hot nylon is being deposited. And some cleanup needed at the end.

But at the end of the day I made nylon to stick to the bed firmly. As I think, the key was isopropil alcohol (with water). But it did not work until I heated up bed to 80-90C. After I decided to re-level the bed, as I saw that while printing nylon flas circle surfaces (brims, raft and etc. (3-4cm dia)) deatachment always was starting on the same side of a part. So if you got this as well on usual basis, it is a good indicator of unleveled bed. It seems like nylon is much more sensitive to the bed leveling than ABS and PETG.

After these 2 things, I got such great attachment that I had to use tools to remove it. Usually, I could remove it just by touching.

After these actions ABS started to adhere so well, that I had to raise z-axis a bit. to keep first layer on the model and not on the print bed.

I hope it helps.
Cheers.

2

By way, layer height is critical as well. At .2 adhesion was weak. at 0.1 great.

3

Haven’t tried nylon on PEI yet. I need to upgrade my hotend before I can start printing it.

4

Forgot to mention. I print it at 235 with stock nozzle and 30-40 mm/s. Works fine for parts with thick walls. Thin are ok, but can delaminate under stress.

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Here is photos of what i did. setting are about the sae .235C. 0.5 nozzle. 0.1-0.15 layer. speed 30-40mm/s.

There are delamination on the top of the vase. I wanted to see how far I can go squeezing it. Not far at all. I printed it with only 1 (Simplify3D) shell. Should I go for 2?

As well bottom of the vase is deattaching. Might be because of only one shell.

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Well, I tried a print with 618. My bed is level to within half a thousandth (digital micrometer). It popped off the blue painter’s tape that I had seen recommended. I think it made it 2, maybe 3 layers. Tried the glue stick (stole granddaughter’s for a test). Didn’t adhere at all. Tried it directly on the PEI plate and I think it stuck for about half a layer before it popped loose.

So, no love for Nylon. Yet.

7

Haven’t tried nylon… But if prints well on paper, maybe Oratape HT55 could be a solution. The surface is paper. A google search should come up with US Cutter, they have 6" x10’ sample rolls that are like $10 shipped.

Or maybe full sheet laser/inkjet labels… removable should be fine unless nylon contracts as it cools.


As for the delamination, maybe the layers aren’t fusing together. Increase extruaion temps or turn off the fan… Both should slow the cooling and possibly help with fusing of layers.

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I am printing on PEI. I failed prints before I tweaked all issues. The very first was bed leveling. if you print a solid circle 0.1 mm height and about 3cm diameter, you gonna see which side of your bed is unleveled. On the good side, printed nylon will be almost transparent, transferring color of PEI. On the unleveled side nylon will slightly go off, unveiling its white color. After this “nylon leveling” my PLA and ABS prints was sticking so well that I had to lower bed temperature.

Cheers.

9

Well. My nozzle is not able to get more than 235… =(

10

Is that the hexagon hotend?

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You guys should check out page 13 of this thread. I’m getting nylon to stick on PEI with some PVA. The best part is the PVA is staying on the bed so I don’t have to apply glue very often.
https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/y-belt-position-loud-y-axis/138/1

12

sorry for late reply.

I at that time I had Budda. Now I have Hex.

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Thx for info.