It didn’t state that all the infills were the same… so you’re right to be leary of that sort of result. 
…sigh…you’re just arguing for sport.
Go back and read your own posts.
S3D is sounding more and more interesting to make the jump to it manly for placing supports where you want and not all over everywhere like cura. How about the gcode files for start-up on the mini. Nozzle cleaning, bed leveling etc. can they be copied over to S3D, if so how and where do you save them in S3D. Also do you need to copy the gcode files over for every different filament that you would use to make sure it went through the cleaning nozzle and bed leveling…
I have a TAZ4 so I don’t know the specifics of the mini startup sequence, but:
There is a tab in the S3D settings that lets you add any gcode you want At start print, end print, between layer or at a particular layer, etc. If you can sparse out the sequence for the mini it should be easy to just copy over. And these settings apply for any print, so changing filament is pretty easy. I would create a template with the startup gcode then tweak the filament settings and save that as a setup file (I think they call them factory files).
Regardless this should be easy and intuitive to do on S3D
Great thanks for the info. I am going to look into making the move to S3D very shortly…
I am running my Mini with gcode generated in S3D. I will post my current factory file again if anyone is interested.
I hard coded my temps in the startup gcode but you can use S3Ds variables.
That would be great no pick to repost again with the factory settings.
To everybody who was disappointed with S3D’s infill options, they released a big update (3.0) today that addresses that. Printing a bracket now with hex infill to see how it goes. Options are full hex, fast hex, rectilinear, wiggle (zigzag), triangular and grid. Lots of other updates, too. 3.0 is free to existing users.
Actually v3.0 was quietly released about a week ago, but their announcement email just went out today. Not sure what happened or what was happening. Lots of interesting things… seems to be a focus on dual extruders too (wipe pillars, ooze shield)
If you have stored profiles, probably best to recreate them from the base machine profiles. Not sure if they are converted to incorporate the new parameters. I particularly like being able to select print quality characteristics (Fast, Medium, High) within the profile and get some presets like layer height, infill %… Though this may have been available in the past, and I just missed out by creating profiles from scratch in the past…
There are many nice fixes and features in V3.
Unfortunately, they still have a problem slicing parts with thin walls. The slicer just refuses to infill some of them. On very thin walls, it still prints to single pass walls next to each other that may or may not be fused. This problem alone sends me back to slic3r for many parts.
S3D
Slic3r
I’ve had those problems too… I thought the thin wall features they released in 2.2., helped but still run into those every so often.
My thin wall issues are usually more critical on parts I design. And I can usually go back to adjust thickness as a multiple of the extrusion width. I guess the pain is catching them before printing… Are the extrusion widths adjusted automatically? If set to manual, maybe modifying by .1 or .05 would help get the thin walls closer to a multiple of your extrusion width.
Anyway, might be worth asking on the S3D forums… though I think I’ve threads about it already, but never kept up.
I had a round of emails with S3D support a year ago about it. The answer was always to use one perimeter and high infill. That just isn’t acceptable on all parts… Quadcopter frames for example!
I have renewed my conversation with them now that v3 is out. We’ll see what they say.
Yeah… a thin wall and relying on infill isn’t good for strength / durability especially for multi-rotor frames. I’d be interested to hear what S3D support recommends… I’d remind them of “real-world” application of these parts. 
As work arounds, I usually work with the parameter of 1.5-2.5mm wall and top/bottom for parts requiring durability. Doing the math using .2 layer height and .4 extrusion width, its still a fair amount of perimeter and top/bottom layers (4 and 10 respectively).
For a thin / rigid ABS plate, 3mm is minimum (though I’ve found strength in thicker layer heights, with the .5 nozzle specifically). Which leads to my logic of starting fan cooling after this layer height… the premise is well adhered rigid foundation should resist contraction from upper layers.
A bit anal… but I put a lot of the above into a spreadsheet that converts the heights (mm) to layers for commonly used settings. Thought I’d share a PDF (attached) if anyone is interested… or download the spreadsheet to for modding to personal preferences. Probably should save them as profiles based on nozzle and print speed at some point…
-Lulzbot TAZ5 - Settings_20150615.pdf (41.8 KB)
Well, the software is decent, but their support is pathetic (in friendly words…). It will take them half a day to send you a download link (you need an account on their website) and you will need to send them many nasty e-mails to wake them up and get you the product you bought.
Now, if you actually need support, there is really none. Emails to their published support e-mail address return with “user unknown” and there is no phone number of course either…
Even if you want to reset your password, the function on the website does not work and … wait for it… neither will your product - if you do not have a working internet connection, this POS software is NOT going to get you past the login screen.
Nice functions but the lack of support and idiotic implementation of the requirement to have an internet connection for the product to work makes it completely useless.
I would say, stay away until they get their act together. Right now it feels as if it is a bunch of kids trying to run a company.
I’ve purchased a few licenses at this point. The software is awesome and it’s just an entirely new animal since they v3 upgrade. They pretty much added every single feature I had on my wish list and somehow managed to make the thing 3X faster at the same time! The old 2.x versions were already faster than anything else I had tried by a large margin, so I don’t know what magic voodoo they are using over there, but the version 3 stuff is incredibly fast. I work with large models and multiple parts all the time, so this is a must for me. I tried another program earlier this week and it was taking over 15 minutes to slice one of my files. It took under 30 seconds in S3D. Ridiculously fast and it just makes my workflow so much quicker when I am testing multiple settings to see how things look in their gcode simulator.
Every time I have purchased a license, I received an instant email with instructions on how to download. Happened instantly every single time, so I can’t really relate to the guy above. I’ve also had a great experience with their customer support guys. I’ve probably emailed with them about 20 times at this point. They usually respond back within a few hours, which is about as good as you can hope for. There’s a contact form on their website you can use, or if you just wanna email them directly you can use support[at]simplify3d.com 
And yes, you will obviously need an internet connection to install it, so no surprise there. I also found out from talking with one of their customer support guys that one of their founders actually wrote one of the open-source firmware packages himself. Apparently several of their employees have worked on open-source projects in the past. I don’t know why they don’t advertise that more, but I thought that was really neat to hear.
So if you’re on the edge, I would definitely recommend it. Best $150 upgrade I have ever done for my printer. I get way better quality now and the UI is just a breeze to use. Highly recommended if you’re looking for serious results.
Just downloaded the it to use with my mini. I started a build and it did the wipe but didnt not auto cal. Anyone know whats up with that?
Did you select the Mini when starting it for the first time? The default script they use is OK for a Mini. You can copy the script from Cura though. In Simplify, “Edit Process Settings”, “Scripts”, “Starting Script” I believe.
Note that if you changed something in there, that might be the problem. The Mini is sensitive to the order of commands for the auto-level to work properly. I would start with the default Cura script, then change one thing at a time if you want to make changes, so you know what to change back if it breaks.
Oh, if you copy the Cura script, make sure you change the way they use variables for temperatures. If you look at the commands to set temps you can see the differences pretty easily.
So you cannot just copy and paste?
Cura start-up script
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fan off
G92 E0 ; set extruder position to 0
M140 S110 ; get bed heating up
G28 ; home all
M109 S150 ; set to cleaning temp and wait
G1 Z150 E-30 F75 ; suck up XXmm of filament
M109 S170 ; heat up rest of way
G1 X45 Y174 F11520 ; move behind scraper
G1 Z0 F1200 ; CRITICAL: set Z to height of top of scraper
G1 X45 Y174 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping ; plunge into wipe pad
G1 X55 Y172 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 Z0 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X90 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X115 Y172 Z-0.5 F1000 ; wipe slower and bury noz in cleanish area
G1 Z10 ; raise z
G28 X0 Y0 ; home x and y
M109 S170 ; set to probing temp
M204 S300 ; set accel for probing
G29 ; Probe
M204 S2000 ; set accel back to normal
G1 X5 Y15 Z10 F5000 ; get out the way
M400 ; clear buffer
G4 S1 ; pause
M109 S{print_temperature} ; set extruder temp and wait
G4 S25 ; wait for bed to temp up
G1 Z2 E0 F75 ; extrude filament back into nozzle
M140 S{print_bed_temperature}; get bed temping up during first layer
Simplify 3D start-up script
M107 ; start with the fan off
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; begin bed heating
G28 ; home all axes
M109 S150 ; set to cleaning temp and wait
G1 Z150 E-30 F75 ; suck up 30mm of filament
M109 S170 ; heat up rest of way
G1 X45 Y174 F11520 ; move behind scraper
G1 Z0 F1200 ; set Z to height of top of scraper
G1 X45 Y174 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 Z0 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X90 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X115 Y172 Z-0.5 F1000 ; wipe slower and lower Z
G1 Z10 ; raise Z
G28 X0 Y0 ; home XY axes
M109 S140 ; set to probing temp
M204 S300 ; Set probing acceleration
G29 ; Probe
M204 S2000 ; Restore standard acceleration
G1 X5 Y15 Z10 F5000 ; get out the way
G4 S1 ; pause
M400 ; clear buffer
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set extruder temp and wait
G1 Z2 E0 F75 ; extrude filament back into nozzle
M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; wait for bed to finish heating
If you use the S3D configuration assistant and add the Lulzbot Mini, the default Mini process will have start up script for wiping and probe.
Edit: I thought the previous post just listed the Cura startup.
This is the default code for ABS.
M107 ; start with the fan off
G92 E0 ; zero extruder
M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; begin bed heating
G28 ; home all axes
M109 S150 ; set to cleaning temp and wait
G1 Z150 E-30 F75 ; suck up 30mm of filament
M109 S170 ; heat up rest of way
G1 X45 Y174 F11520 ; move behind scraper
G1 Z0 F1200 ; set Z to height of top of scraper
G1 X45 Y174 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 Z-.5 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 Z0 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X45 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X55 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X60 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X90 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X80 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X100 Y172 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X110 Y174 F4000 ; wiping
G1 X115 Y172 Z-0.5 F1000 ; wipe slower and lower Z
G1 Z10 ; raise Z
G28 X0 Y0 ; home XY axes
M109 S140 ; set to probing temp
M204 S300 ; Set probing acceleration
G29 ; Probe
M204 S2000 ; Restore standard acceleration
G1 X5 Y15 Z10 F5000 ; get out the way
G4 S1 ; pause
M400 ; clear buffer
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set extruder temp and wait
G1 Z2 E0 F75 ; extrude filament back into nozzle
M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; wait for bed to finish heating