Some questions before purchasing a TAZ5.

Hi all,

I am a 3d printing beginner and my research so far has landed me in the TAZ5 camp. From all the reviews that I’ve read the TAZ5 seems to be the best overall printer with the best balance of quality, flexibility, and price. However, I do have some questions for which I have not been able to find answers. I was hoping that the users of this board could help me!

In an Tom’s Hardware review of the TAZ5 (https://forum.lulzbot.com/ucp.php?mode=activate&u=2830&k=1IBPFO), I read that a newer version of the TAZ5 is coming up, which will include the auto bed leveling and the nozzle scrubbing pad. Does anyone know when that is going to become available?

Related to the above, do you know whether the newer TAZ5 (with auto leveling) will also include the manually-adjustable bed screws? Auto-leveling is nice but I’ve read that it’s done in-software. I would think that the software auto-leveling would be great to compensate for heat expansion but nothing beats a physically leveled bed.

Finally, I see on the Lulzbot website that a 0.35mm nozzle is available for the TAZ5 but only as a separate purchase. Does anyone know why I can’t order the TAZ5 with the 0.35mm nozzle directly?

Thank you all for the help!

We can certanly try!

Sometime after March-ish, possibly later than that. You can see the prototype here: http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/Mangrove/photos/Mangrove_Photos/

It looks like it will have fixed bed corners with software leveling, identical to the Lulzbot Mini for the most part.

The Taz used to ship with a 0.35mm nozzle, and most users are apparently not qualified to operate a 0.35mm nozzle, because there were a fair amount of problems (not due to the nozzle, but due to people using it improperly or complaining about the speed compared to a 0.50mm. ) You might call support and see if they will sell you a 0.35mm variant directly as a special order?

Thank you all for the help![/quote]

You’re welcome!

Which one would you think is better? Auto leveling or manual? I’ve read that software leveling has it’s limitations and nothing is better than truly level printing surface so I don’t mind doing it manually if that is the better way to go. On the other hand compensating for heat expansion is nice too.

Related question: does the auto leveling happen before or after the bed is heated up?

Thanks for the suggestion! Do you mind pointing me in the direction of the problems users were reporting? I completely realize that smaller print nozzle would resulting in higher print times and I am prepared to deal with that to get higher quality prints. However, I’d like to read up on the other issues users were dealing with before I decide.

Thank you.

On my particular Taz, I have modified it somewhat, one of the mofications being replacing the stock endstop target with a Micrometer Barrel. WIth that mod. I never really have to re-level. In my case, waiting for an auto leveling system each time would not necessarily be a good use of my time. For a different user with less leveling experiance and a printer more prone to needing leveling, it might be a highly desireable feature. I only level my bed at full temperature and full nozzle expansion.

The auto leveling happens at the beginning of when you press the print button. If the printer is at full temp when you hit that button, it will be heated up. If it isn’t all the way to temperature and you still hit print, it will be at whatever temperature it reached when you pressed the button, still rising towards the full setpoint.

If you do a search in the forum for “Taz Nozzle clogging” from about a year and a half ago you will see some of them. There were a few people that complained about more frequint “clogging” in reality they were probably too close to the bed, or printing ABS and lifting off the bed and blocking the nozzle, because it is easier to block a smaller hole than a bigger one. There were a few minor quality controill issues with the first 0.35mm nozzles where some brass shavings were found in the nozzle, having broken off sometime after shipping, but I know of only two instances of that, and one of them was a user who was also having a bunch of other problems related to “clogging” Debris based clogging of nozzles almost never happens. Almost every instance that gets reported is actually caused by the nozzle ending up too close to somethign and eventually jamming (the bed, the part, etc.) Those have almost all ceased to be reported with the move to the 0.5mm nozzle.

One thing to be aware of, the only resolution advantage a 0.35mm nozzle gives you over a 0.5mm is in printing 0.35mm features on a print, for example a 0.35mm wide window molding on an archatextural model. A 0.50mm nozzle can print just as thin a layer as a 0.35mm nozzle, so the only advantage is on small features in the outer perimiter. Most people don’t print thin layers with them for some reason, but there isn’t a huge amount of things that a 0.35mm nozle will do that a 0.50mm one won’t do.

Do a search for “issues” or “Problems” in here, and you will see any issues, and most of the time solutions for anything along those lines.

You’re welcome again!