Taulman Bridge Nylon

What extruder are you using for this? I got some from amazon sold by matterhacker the maker of mattercontrol. The ones I got are averaging 2.60 and the std extruder wont grip it, doesn’t even scratch it with the tension maxed.

Emailed him and he checked a few rolls and they were all > 2.7 he said that they probably make it on the skinny side for the maker bots and airtripper extruders that want 2.8? He said he would gladly take a return, but this is taulman bridge nylon and the label says lab certified, So my question is?

what brand and diameter is your bridge nylon and what extruder are you using? If this stuff is truly made on teh skinny side and I have to make a different extruder file the flexy to use it, I’ll keep the stuff.

I had the exact same problem, but I bout my filament from lulzbot.com not amazon.

I’m sure I could have returned it and gotten some that was actually 3mm, but I thought I would try it anyway.

It kinked like TPU does if you run it through a conventional extruder. So I ran it with a flexystruder.

Since the filament was so far under spec in diameter, I had to really crank down on the compressor screw on the flexy which I didn’t like.

At this point, I wasn’t satisfied with the interlayer adhesion so i decided to run it hotter. Budas only go to 235c ish so I picked up a hexagon hotend from reprap discount and modified the flexystruder from devel.lulzbot.com using the same cutout geometry they have for the hexagon hotend in the conventional extruder. I ordered the vitamins from mcmaster-carr and found that the original diameter was perfect for the ~2.6mm Bridge, so I left it instead of drilling it to 3.5mm as recommended by the flexystruder assembly instructions.
flexystruder-V1.1_hexagon_hotend.stl (450 KB)
It turns out that the hexagon hotend is a bit shorter than the buda, so a friend of mine was nice enough to make a lowered extuder mount so that the nozzle would reach the bed.
extruder_mount-hex-lowered.stl (420 KB)

I bought the vitamins and built the thing.

and then printed with it a few more times.

What I found is that the interlayer adhesion seemed to increase with temperature – to an extent. At high enough temperatures, the nylon will break down and vaporize and clog your nozzle. I found this out the hard way when my kapton tape fell off and the thermistor it was holding in came out. Surprisingly enough, the printer went through the motions like this for hours without complaint and when I taped the thermistor back in It ran just fine as if nothing had happened even though the HOTEND HAD BEEN RAILING AT 24 VOLTS FOR HOURS :open_mouth:.

Anyway I was able to get something more along the lines of what I was expecting with this setup running at 285c. Perhaps you can do the same.

ok, thats what I thought may be the case and wanted to verify.

I have the vitamins for a flexystruder and it is in the works as I also have a roll of ninjaflex here as well.

The hotend part, I run my nozzle at 240 for abs so planned to use it. After seeing the kinking like PLA in your pics, I looks like a good candidate for my water cooled buda. I have the parts for some minor changes I wanted to make to it but got distracted with the PEI sheet and ABS consistency. Now I have a reason to hook it up again.

I also have a couple e3dv6 nozzles I can use. Have a mount for it I designed a while back.

As long as I know this is the standard, I will work from there. Just didn’t want to put time in on a solution and find my next batch wont need it. :slight_smile:

so I will get the flexystruder/watercooled buda set up and report back.

Hi guys, ok so I have problems with inter layer adhesion.

I bought three rolls of the bridge filament and have been through one whole roll now with nothing to show for it.

Prints all come out looking fine but I can split them apart effortlessly. To be honest I am not happy.

It states this can be printed at 240 deg (what I use for ABS) and clearly it does not get hot enough to adhere to itself at this temperature however it is hot enough to creat a print. Also higher prints have more issues as the plastic drags it moves the part and will fail.

Ok so big deal I wasted some money on filament. So where does that leave us?

Best adhesion I could get was printing very thin layers but even that you could pull one strand and it would come apart like an old knitted sweater hahah!

I printed the delamination test as well and it prints just fine to look at… actually very well but again it just falls apart if you pull on it or squish it.

Can anyone from Taulman chime in?

Oh and btw I am using standard buda with .5mm nozzle